Guide - External aggressions

The skin envelops the body and blocks external aggressions. But this protective layer, thin and gifted, must still be helped, especially during winter to resist the cold. What are the effects of cold on the skin and above all how can we protect it when temperatures drop so that it remains healthy and beautiful? The solutions.

The effects of cold on the skin are numerous. The cold has a direct impact on the skin, especially on its epidermis, the outermost layer. The skin becomes fragile and dries out, a phenomenon which results in feelings of discomfort, redness and itching. These manifestations, unpleasant and unsightly, can persist for several months of the year.
Indeed, in winter, damaged skin lacks water and fat. These deficiencies lead to chain symptoms: dryness causes roughness and redness which can turn into cracks (on the fingers, feet and corners of the lips) when the skin “cracks”. Tingling and itching are signals of skin that lacks suppleness and comfort. They appear especially on the face and hands on the front line against the cold.
Certain regions of the body (elbows, knees, legs), although protected, experience the same problems. Indeed, their few sebaceous glands in these areas produce an insufficient quantity of sebum so that their surface hydrolipidic film is significantly less effective.

Why does the cold damage the skin?

In winter, despite the rain and snow, the air is drier. In addition, the feeling of thirst is less important. Result: the skin receives less water and loses more. Skin damaged by the cold becomes dehydrated.
The drop in temperature also alters its function as a barrier, a sort of wall, composed of several layers of dead cells (corneocytes) organized like bricks linked together by a cement made of lipids. The cells of the stratum corneum, the outermost layer, slough off. They are fewer in number so that the skin becomes thinner. In addition, its protective hydrolipidic film is of poorer quality: if water is lacking, so is fat. Indeed, sebum secretion drops because the sebaceous glands slow down when the temperature drops. Ultimately, the skin barrier function is significantly less protective. The skin feels naked and the water present in our cells escapes much more easily. Deprived of its usual defense mechanisms, the skin is damaged by the cold and itches. Added to this are the effects of temperature variations. Indeed, the drop in temperature encourages the body to preserve its vital organs by maintaining good irrigation. Blood flow concentrates towards them, leaving peripheral organs including the skin behind. Less irrigated, it is less well nourished and less resistant. In addition, the alternation between the cold from the outside and the heat from the inside due to heating, triggers a yoyo effect of vaso-constriction and vasodilation: the blood capillaries, micro-vessels on the surface of the skin, subjected to this gymnastics can end up breaking and causing redness or even rosacea, particularly on the nose and cheeks. These effects of cold on the skin, particularly itching, are felt even more in the case of dermatological conditions such as xerosis and atopic dermatitis. `

How to protect your skin from the cold?

If the first protection of the skin against the cold and snow is clothing, the latter does not cover all areas (especially the face and hands) and remains imperfect.

Cosmetic treatments

Moisturizing cosmetic formulas play a leading role in protecting the skin from the effects of cold. They provide it with water, hydration activators (hyaluronic acid) to help it retain it, fatty substances to compensate for the lack of sebum, vitamins (PP, or even niacinamide) to revive radiance and regenerating active ingredients (Nacr-45 ®: active mother-of-pearl) to help it repair itself. These hydrating formulas are complemented by a revitalizing and regenerating action. In addition, after application, the cream leaves a non-greasy protective film on the surface which, in a way, protects the skin. The skin is protected, hydrated, radiant and more resilient.

Food

To support the action of cosmetics, it is essential to hydrate the skin from the inside by drinking water, herbal teas regularly during the day, but a moderate quantity of draining drinks (such as tea and coffee) and little of alcohol. This internal hydration is also achieved through a diet rich in water, such as fruits and vegetables.

Skin and nervous system have been linked since before birth since they are formed from the same embryonic tissue in utero. This explains why they remain closely linked throughout life, and why an obvious link is forged between our mental state and our possible skin problems.

This is why the effects of stress, anxieties, emotions and everything that influences the nervous system can also have an impact on the skin, from simple momentary blushing, to certain skin diseases, such as acne and psoriasis.

From speech to skin manifestations, the effects of stress are expressed and displayed on the skin

• Pictorial language “Being on edge” when we are on the verge of bursting because emotions and stress overwhelm us; “to feel bad about one's skin” when the psychological state is upset, when the being is in pain… So many pictorial expressions which show to what extent the psychological state, the nervous state and the skin are correlated. These expressions reveal both to what extent the skin is a reflection of our emotions and our nervous state, to what extent it shows the world what we feel inside, but also how, from a physiological point of view, brain and skin are intimately connected through the nervous system in particular.

• Emotions that can be seen
The skin is the organ that is seen, that shows us and expresses, sometimes at our expense, our emotions, and all forms of stress, positive or negative. Sometimes all it takes is a fear, a one-off stress (job interview, important speech, romantic date), for the skin to suddenly react – and betray us – by blushing, turning pale, causing excess sweating sometimes. We speak of these temporary rednesses, which appear under the influence of an emotion and disappear immediately, as a “flush”.

The skin and the nervous system, a close relationship

The same origin

In the first three months of uterine life, skin and nervous system become one. They are formed from one of the 3 tissues that constitute us: the ectoderm. Which explains why they remain in close relationship throughout life, communicating non-stop. But the skin, unlike the intestine, is not a “second brain”, because it does not contain neurons, but a large number of nerve endings.

The neuro-immune-cutaneous system

In the skin, the nervous system, controlled by the brain, modulates and influences all skin functions: the capacity for repair, cell renewal and healing, hair growth, sebum production, UV reaction and immunity. skin. Skin cells indeed have receptors for neurotransmitters, these chemical substances which transport information. There are around forty neurotransmitters in the skin: adrenaline, acetylcholine, GABA, etc. Certain hormones also play this role of messengers, such as melatonin, estrogens, cortisol. The relationships between skin, immunity and the nervous system are so close that Professor Laurent Misery, head of the dermatology department and director of the neuroscience laboratory at the Brest CHRU, even developed the concept of a “neuro-immune-cutaneous system”

Cortisol, a key hormone

As Professor Misery points out, in French the word stress designates both the cause (the event: bereavement, job interview, accident, etc.), its effects on the person and the body, and the response to this aggression . Stress can be acute or chronic.
However, when we experience stress, the body responds with a cascade of reactions that activate both areas of the brain (hypothalamus, pituitary gland) and the sympathetic nervous system, leading to the release of hormones and neurotransmitters. Adrenaline, which prepares us to react in the event of danger, and cortisol, considered the stress hormone par excellence, are the most determining. But there are others: ACTH (or adrenocorticotropic hormone), oxytocin (positive hormone in response to stress) and vasopressin. Adrenaline and cortisol allow you to go into a state of hypervigilance, to send a surplus of nutrients and oxygen to the brain and muscles, so that they react quickly (running during an attack for example). Cortisol in particular, which normally regulates carbohydrates, lipids, proteins, ions and water in our body, has the role, in cases of stress, of releasing a dose of glucose into the blood to boost the heart, lungs and muscles. . When stress is acute and temporary, no problem, but if it becomes chronic, the result is too high a level of cortisol in the blood which leads to sleep problems, excess weight, concentration problems, etc. On the skin, the effects stress causes red patches, overproduction of sebum, skin inflammations, etc.

The effects of stress on the beauty of the skin

Stress makes us go into “survival” mode: the body concentrates its resources on vital organs and muscles, to the detriment of the rest… and therefore of the peripheral area that is the skin. When the stress is occasional (running after your bus, looking for your cell phone), no problem. But if stress becomes chronic, a daily mode of functioning, because you have a young child, pressure at work, a bereavement or a separation... it affects the proper functioning of the skin, and it ends up being visible .

The dehydration

Stressed skin changes and becomes fragile. It is less well nourished and irrigated, its skin barrier is impaired. Stress can therefore cause dehydration, with even the appearance of plaques, redness and tightness.

The lack of shine

Adrenaline secreted during stress causes vasoconstrictions and oxytocin - normally the bonding hormone but also boosted in the event of stress to improve the reaction - causes vasodilation. As a result, the nutrients carried by the blood are no longer distributed evenly and optimally and the complexion becomes dull. Lack of radiance adds to dehydration.

Oxidative stress

The immune system reacts to stress by producing free radicals in order to neutralize possible pathogens linked to injury or infection. Furthermore, cortisol also induces a greater production of free radicals. This overload of free radicals means that the natural anti-oxidant defense system is overwhelmed. Result: oxidative stress sets in and skin cells age prematurely.

Premature wrinkles

In addition to aggravating oxidative stress, cortisol alters collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, which are essential for the firmness and elasticity of the skin. It therefore leads to accelerated aging with the early appearance of wrinkles, and a loss of tone of the skin which sags. Added to this is a contraction of the facial muscles, the features are tense and the eyebrows frown. These effects of stress lead to the appearance of expression lines.

The effects of stress on skin health

Stress is not the cause of chronic skin diseases, the causes of which are multifactorial, often with a genetic factor, but it can cause flare-ups as a triggering or aggravating factor. And since these skin pathologies, difficult to live with because they undermine confidence and self-esteem, they also cause stress, we enter a vicious circle of self-perpetuation of the disease.

Itching, especially at night

There are a myriad of causes of pruritus (medications, fungal infections, eczema, etc.) but there is also "psychogenic pruritus", linked directly to stress with no other possible cause, with worsening in the evening and at night, and during periods of inactivity and rest. This itching can be improved by psychotherapy.

Stress acne and its pimples

Acne is also caused by stress. Indeed, cortisol - again - boosts the production of androgen hormones, which stimulate the production of sebum. Result: the pores become blocked, the acne bacteria (c.acnes) develops on the surface of the skin and pimples and blackheads appear. And, as with other skin pathologies, stress and acne feed on themselves, because cortisol, which intervenes again, maintains inflammation and prevents rapid healing. Treatment: depending on the gradation, it ranges from benzoyl peroxide associated with retinoids locally, to isotretinoin orally.

Urticaria outbreaks

Long considered a psychosomatic illness, urticaria, characterized by an often itchy rash of papules, is not one. On the other hand, stress can trigger or worsen certain outbreaks of hives. Treatment: antihistamines, and in some cases, omalizumab, an anti-IgE monoclonal antibody.

Eczema

Studies on people suffering from atopic dermatitis and subjected to stress (after an earthquake in Japan) showed an exacerbation of the pathology in the following month in almost 40% of them. In cases of minor stress, a flare-up may also occur in the following days. These patients would be more sensitive to adrenaline than the majority. And here again, eczema and stress are a vicious circle, because eczema, which is highly disabling, causes stress. Treatment combines the use of local corticosteroids during attacks and emollients.

Psoriasis

Psoriasis, which causes red, scaly patches due to runaway keratinocytes, is the epitome of a chronic pathology aggravated by the effect of stress. Because in the case of psoriasis, immunity and the overproduction of substance P are strongly involved, as in stress. And stress is the cause of most flare-ups. The most effective treatment remains phototherapy (UV).

Alopecia areata

Dermatologists often note that alopecia areata - hair loss in patches - occurs after stress: bereavement, separation, illness... It is described as an autoimmune disease, because in alopecia areata, the hair follicles are destroyed by mechanisms immunological (lymphocytes). Corticosteroid creams are generally prescribed, which calm inflammation and play an immunosuppressive role.

Herpes

It is also called a cold sore. However, herpes appears in cases of physical stress (fever) or psychological stress (annoyance, high pressure, etc.). It is treated with a specific molecule (acyclovir)

Seborrheic dermatitis

Among the multiple dermatoses favored by stress, dermatologists often also cite seborrheic dermatitis, marked by white or yellowish flaking patches on the T zone of the face, the scalp and the thorax. This condition caused by the proliferation of commensal yeast (malassezia) feeds on the sebum produced in excess by the sebaceous glands. As, in cases of stress, sebum production increases, this famous yeast develops. Dermatologists prescribe antifungals, combined in some cases with corticosteroids.

How to reduce the effects of stress on the skin?

The trio of cosmetics, diet and relaxation remains the best solution against the effects of stress on the skin.

A suitable cosmetic routine

Whether it is dryness and lack of radiance, or a real dermatosis, once again the appropriate routine begins with proper cleansing, with a gentle cleanser, for the face and body, without soap, with non-aggressive surfactants that respect the pH, the microbiota and the skin's hydrolipidic film, and water that is not too hot (and showers rather than baths).

In the BLUE SKINCARE NACRE ÉCLAT Range, we advise you to follow the following routine in all seasons:
1- Remove make-up and cleanse the face with Metamorphose Balm. A real treat for tight skin, because it is a gelled makeup remover oil! After rinsing with clean water, the skin feels clean, soft and comfortable. For those who prefer more watery textures, Milky Micellar Water will delight combination skin looking for more freshness. An ultra-concentrated half-milk, half-water cleanser to use as a massage to remove makeup and cleanse effortlessly.
2- Return the skin's pH to balance with Isotonic Mother-of-Pearl Water In the XERO NACRE Range from BLUE SKINCARE, to take care of your body, we advise you to use in addition to your usual care:
Lipid-Replenishing Cleansing Oil to gently cleanse the body. Enriched with organic vegetable oils, its creamy and enveloping texture cleanses, nourishes and soothes the most uncomfortable skin prone to itching.

On the care side, we choose products from the short Inci list (the list of ingredients), with moisturizing active ingredients (hyaluronic acid, glycerin), anti-inflammatory (niacinamide, panthenol) and anti-oxidants (Vitamin C, vitamin E, polyphenols). And we coat our body with emollients (moisturizing products). All this does not prevent the occurrence of skin pathologies, but helps reduce dehydration and premature aging, and space out outbreaks.
In the BLUE SKINCARE NACRE ÉCLAT Range, we advise you to use morning and evening: the New Skin Serum to sustainably rehydrate the epidermis (24-hour hydration), then the Regenerating Moisturizing Cream to nourish, hydrate (48-hour hydration) and protect the skin from external aggressions. BLUE SKINCARE treatments are rich in NACR-45® mother-of-pearl powder (the brand's proprietary active ingredient) whose “shield” effectiveness has been scientifically proven. Day after day, the skin barrier is restored. The skin is stronger.

A controlled diet

To boost yourself or, on the contrary, calm down, in cases of stress, you may be tempted to have more coffee, drink a glass of alcohol or smoke a cigarette. It is a mistake. On the contrary, we avoid all exciting substances (alcohol, coffee, etc.) and sodas, which are drying. On the contrary, we hydrate as much as possible with water. And we adopt a diet rich in antioxidants (red, yellow, orange, green fruits and vegetables) and fatty acids (salmon, sardines).
As a complement to your beauty routine, we advise you to include the Skin Perfecting Food Supplement from the NACRE ÉCLAT range from BLUE SKINCARE for radiant and more resilient skin. Ultra concentrated in active mother-of-pearl, it also contains a pre- and probiotic complex to rebalance the intestinal microbiota, and hyaluronic acid to maintain the hydration and elasticity of the skin. Rich in vitamin C and zinc, it is an anti-oxidant and contributes to the normal formation of collagen for plumper skin.

Relaxation to manage stress

In this anxiety-provoking world where everything moves too quickly, and where stress becomes a way of life, it is essential to carve out time for rest and relaxation once or twice a week. Yoga, meditation, sophrology, chosen physical activity are the best way to successfully put stress at bay. They are also being included more and more in the treatment of chronic diseases, whatever they may be. Massage can also relieve stress.
A consultation with a psychiatrist or psychologist – in addition to that of a dermatologist – can also help to understand the origin of stress. There is even a medical discipline dealing with the relationship between dermatology and psychiatry: psycho-dermatology. The objective is to treat skin conditions with a psychosomatic approach.

The water used for washing is often limestone, which attacks the skin and weakens it. Limescale and excessive hygiene weaken the protective effect of the epidermis and can trigger itching, tightness, dryness or even allergies and even promote certain dermatological conditions. Here are all the solutions to have beautiful skin despite everything.

The water acts directly on the skin. The skin is a so-called “containing” organ since it
envelops us entirely. It is the only barrier between the body and the outside world. But it is alive and as such, it interacts with its environment. The skin is also a so-called emunctory organ, meaning that it is capable of eliminating waste and toxins, through its pores, via perspiration. But it is also capable of absorbing what it comes into contact with, like a blotter: this is how cosmetics treat skin problems. This phenomenon also explains the softening of the stratum corneum, this layer of dead cells which protects the surface of the skin, when you bathe your feet or hands before a pedicure or manicure. Beyond these natural processes, the skin often absorbs toxic substances unintentionally, and loses precious substances, especially water, when its hydrolipidic film is altered. This trans-epidermal water loss, which leads to dehydration, is aggravated by hard water and excessive hygiene. In fact, hard water then penetrates more easily into the skin and alters it even more: it is a real vicious circle.

What is hard water?

To reach underground reserves, water travels from the earth's surface through the ground. During this passage, it circulates in limestone or chalky geological layers which load it with carbonates (calcium and magnesium) and microparticles of trace elements. Water is said to be “hard” when it retains a lot of minerals. It is therefore highly concentrated in salts, in particular calcium and magnesium. The hardness of water is measured in degrees “F”: between 0 and 18°F water is called soft, between 18 and 30°F it is semi-hard and hard if it exceeds 30°F. At home, we easily assess the hardness by the traces it leaves when drying: this is the limescale it contains and which is deposited when it evaporates... the same one which scales washing machines and which damages the skin !

How does hard water attack the skin?

Limestone (also called tartar), a mineral naturally present in water, is poorly tolerated by the skin. Its tiny crystals are deposited on the epidermis like so many micro-needles, and irritate it. Hard water is a real aggression, and rightly so since it causes redness, tightness, spots, and dryness. It weakens the stratum corneum and the hydrolipid film. The skin is less waterproof, less homogenous and all its biological mechanisms are disrupted. Normal skin can become dry and/or dehydrated simply because of too much hard water. And all the more so if limescale is deposited and remains on the surface of the skin when it dries in the open air. The feelings of tightness and discomfort can quickly degenerate into itching, skin irritations, or even eczema and allergies.

The effects of hard water on the skin:

Hard water has the effect of an irritant on the skin and triggers the responses it reserves to attacks: plaques, itching, imperfections and redness. Dryness, which makes the skin more sensitive and more reactive, pushes it even further into this spiral of symptoms. At the same time, the effects of limescale accumulate if the skin is not soothed. She then finds herself in a situation of chronic irritability, with increasingly strong allergy-type reactions each time she is confronted with limescale in the water. Real dermatological problems then set in such as atopic dermatitis, dandruff on the scalp, sore spots or pimples. Finally, hard water aggravates certain existing skin conditions such as eczema or psoriasis. In addition to the frequency of exposure to limescale from excessive hygiene, this strips the skin, alters its hydrolipidic film and promotes drying and aggravates skin problems even more.

Solutions against the effects of limescale and excessive hygiene on the skin

Certain actions are lifesaving to preserve the integrity of the skin and its protective film

Avoid numerous washes

Too frequent, they dry out the epidermis by thinning the hydro-protective film on the surface. Use gentle formulas designed for sensitive skin and dermatologically tested.

To remove limescale that remains on the skin

The first thing is to adapt the right temperature of the water with which you wash. In fact, it is by heating that the water transforms the mineral salts into scale: the hotter the water, the more they crystallize and form limescale. Set to a lukewarm temperature or rinse with cold water to remove as much limescale as possible from the surface of the skin. Then dry thoroughly, if possible by pressure rather than friction, to absorb water without rubbing the skin. On the face, use soft cotton gauze or microfiber towels.

To protect against the effects of limescale on the skin

The essential gesture: use rich and gentle formulas to clean the epidermis, whether it is the body or the face. A super-fatted cleanser, or a lipid-replenishing cleansing oil, leaves a protective film on the surface and provides comfort to the skin. In its XERONACRE range from BLUE SKINCARE dedicated to dry and uncomfortable skin, we recommend the Lipid-Replenishing Cleansing Oil: it gently cleanses the face and body while replenishing it. Beneficial for the most delicate skin, its unique complex of ultra-gentle cleansing agents coupled with nourishing vegetable oils and prebiotics respects the hydrolipidic film and the skin microbiota.
You must also adapt your facial routine with water-free make-up removers to avoid additional contact with limescale: double cleansing with a make-up remover balm followed by micellar water avoids altering the stratum corneum and respects the hydro film. lipidic without leaving mineral residue, while cleaning perfectly. Choose products that are dermatologically tested and formulated for sensitive skin. Finally, use moisturizing and nourishing treatments with emollient agents to protect the skin and soothe its dryness. In the event of an allergy-type crisis or when the skin itches due to limescale (or cold), opt for an anti-itching treatment to put an end to the crisis.