Clean Beauty

This Rousseauist idea that adorns nature with all virtues and blames chemistry for all evils is a widespread shortcut that has been taken too quickly in recent years, particularly in cosmetics. Is it really true?

Over the years, we have seen natural ingredients become selling points: "with shea, aloe vera, green tea..." are now written in large letters on many products, alongside claims of ever-higher percentages of ingredients of natural origin. Naturalness has won the day and we can only be happy about it. But be careful not to be fooled by certain greenwashing arguments. And besides, is natural necessarily a guarantee of better quality and effectiveness for the skin? As is often the case, we need to look more closely and add nuances.

More natural, undeniable progress

We are now far from the cosmetics of the 1980s and 1990s, which were very chemical and full of active ingredients whose names we could neither pronounce nor what they were made of.

The turning point of the 2000s

Let us remember that European regulations were among the most drastic and the cosmetic sector was extremely closely monitored, due to the Morhange talc tragedy that occurred in 1972. A handling error led to an overdose of a powerful bactericide in Morhange baby talc, resulting in the death of 36 infants and the poisoning of 168 others. This tragedy left strong scars and gave rise to the French Law of 1975 and the European Directive of 1978, on the regulation and regulation of cosmetics.
But the 1970s remained the years of technicality, where chemistry rhymed with performance, and where natural was still synonymous with "hippie" with a lingering scent of patchouli.
The 2000s marked a turning point with, on the one hand, the creation in 2002 of the Cosmébio Charter which defined organic cosmetics , which then emerged from its Larzac-stamped ghetto, and on the other hand, the Envoyé Spécial broadcast in March 2005 which threw a spanner in the works of "conventional" cosmetics and parabens as fodder for the general public. Suspicion was born, natural became good, chemistry bad.

Cosmetics that “go green”

Little by little, natural ingredients have been gaining ground, beyond organic cosmetics which have played an important role as a spur as well as a troublemaker. All groups have greened their formulas, sought natural ingredients, local for some, exotic for others. Now, aloe vera, argan oil, shea butter, to name only the most common, are known and recognized by the general public and have become selling points.
And little by little, alongside star natural ingredients, laboratories have sought to eliminate from their formulas certain less interesting chemical ingredients – which we have gradually realized could disrupt the microbiota , when they are not downright irritating or suspected of being endocrine disruptors. It is a slow and long movement, difficult, because it supposes to review each formula from top to bottom and to learn another way of designing them.

Be careful, there is natural and natural origin

Natural or natural origin?

Since 2017, faced with organic cosmetics that have made their mark with very defined standards, the cosmetics industry has wanted to define what an organic ingredient is, a natural ingredient... The result was Standard 16128, which defines that "natural ingredients are cosmetic ingredients obtained exclusively from plants, animals, microorganisms or minerals". Pure vegetable oils and butters, essential oils and plant extracts without solvent or refining comply with this definition. In addition, "ingredients derived from natural materials are cosmetic ingredients, for a proportion of more than 50% of natural origin, which are obtained by defined chemical and/or biological processes aimed at chemically modifying them". And this is where the problem lies, because, in the consumer's mind, natural and natural origin are confused, and it must be admitted, manufacturers do nothing to dispel this confusion. So much so that we have since seen the emergence of stamps on products that say 95% natural origin, 99% natural origin, etc., where percentage and natural are written in large letters while "origin" seems to be disappearing. However, there is no requirement that the transformation be green chemistry , and thus a raw material can be considered to be of natural origin, even though it can contain up to 49% non-renewable resources.

The natural argument in a formula, which is not at all natural

Similarly, some formulas, under the pretext that they highlight a natural active ingredient, can, for the rest of the formula, contain all sorts of ingredients such as sulfates, silicones, preservatives, surfactants, etc. Whether for shower gels, hair products or care products, the argument is true everywhere. And what about makeup about the vegan argument that allows an extremely chemical product to do "greenwashing" under the pretext that it is PETA-stamped?

Natural, less toxic?

Now that we have seen that we should not be fooled by marketing arguments, let's say "exaggerated", what is the real situation for the skin?

Less toxic?

Of course, natural ingredients can be opposed to products of synthetic origin, especially when these are criticized. Among these, some pose a problem because they are not ecological but do not have an impact on human health: silicones, mineral oils, etc. Others can cause irritation, such as surfactants with sulfates. And finally, those suspected of being endocrine disruptors or carcinogens, such as triclosan, phthalates, oxybenzone and benzophenone, volatile silicones - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D5). But there are also endocrine disruptors in natural ingredients: soy is an estrogen-like, lavender and tea tree essential oils are also suspected of being so.

The worst poisons exist in nature

After all, everything is chemistry. Plants are complex and the result of millions of years of chemical transformations. And in nature we find extremely toxic plants, and not only poisons like cyanide or hemlock. These poisons, with an infinitesimal range, are even used as medicines. Everything is always a question of dose, both in the natural and in the synthetic.
Conversely, if we took the argument to the extreme, we could even say that oil is natural.

Some natural ingredients are not suitable for all skin types

Natural cosmetics are not without danger either. Natural ingredients can be poorly tolerated. This is particularly the case with essential oils . Extremely powerful, they are classified as potentially allergenic, especially citrus oils. In fact, almost no essential oil is free of allergens and some are particularly irritating or sensitizing. Cinnamon essential oil can even be toxic.
This is why sensitive skin should avoid them or always try them out before adopting them. Reassuring fact: cosmetic brands dose them skillfully and the average percentage of essential oils used in an organic French facial treatment is low.

Natural, more active

One of the arguments often made would be that natural and organic are less effective. Let's say instead that they act differently, and require a little patience.

Better affinity

Natural active ingredients have a greater affinity with the natural constituents of the skin. This is particularly the case for oils and butters whose lipids, structurally very close to those of the skin, penetrate it easily and are quickly assimilated. They blend with our own lipids in the hydrolipidic layer. This is true for the skin, but also for the hair.
In particular, it has been realized that synthetic surfactants can unbalance the skin microbiota . As a result, more and more conventional brands are abandoning sulfates, exchanging synthetic surfactants for surfactants derived from coconut for a gentler and more biomimetic action. In general, natural ingredients are more respectful of the skin, its microbiota and its hydrolipidic film.

More active

Some of the ingredients derived from chemistry are inert or neutral, meaning they do not provide any real benefit to the skin or hair. This is the case for mineral oils, petroleum jelly, paraffin, etc. which certainly form a barrier preventing the evaporation of water from the skin, but do not treat it. Silicones do the same on the hair and provide slipperiness and softness to care and makeup, but without any care benefit. Thus, the base of a classic emulsion combining filtered/distilled water and synthetic oil is only a vector but does not provide anything active.

Complex and 100% active ingredients

Synthetic active ingredients are often monolithic. Made up of isolated molecules, they often have a targeted and unique action. Each plant is the fruit of millions of years of evolution. So much so that their extracts contain hundreds of active molecules. They contain vitamins (A, B, C, D, E, K, PP), antioxidants (polyphenols, flavonoids, anthocyanins, resveratrol), trace elements, amino acids and fatty acids (omega 3, 6, 9) and will thus act on all the vital functions of the skin: hydration, protection, regeneration, etc.
Likewise, oils and butters are rich in vitamins and fatty acids and provide suppleness, nutrition and tone.
So in the end, a real natural formula, without overly denatured ingredients – and even more so an organic formula – is almost 100% active.

Real effectiveness

For a while, it was more difficult to observe real effectiveness in natural cosmetics, and organic in particular, especially in anti-aging. As for hydration and nutrition, on the contrary, natural products often act more quickly due to their high concentration of active ingredients in affinity with the skin. In fact, the effectiveness required more patience to be visible. Because, as these components of natural or organic cosmetics are less targeted and have a more complex and diffuse action, their effectiveness seems less. But progress in green chemistry and biotechnology now allows these treatments to provide both sensoriality and effectiveness comparable to conventional products, which are increasingly abandoning synthetic ingredients to move closer to formulas with more naturalness.

Natural is indeed better for the skin, because it is more affinity and biomimetic, and more active. Provided you know how to read the labels and distinguish true natural from products that pretend to be. But be careful not to fall into Manichaeism by thinking that all natural is necessarily better. When you have sensitive, intolerant skin, a tendency to allergies, you pay attention to certain components which, although natural, may not be suitable or even irritating or allergenic.

Coconut oil can do it all! It has become the star of natural beauty and healthy cooking. Even if the raw material is of quality, it is on the side of the production processes that we must look to know if its consumption is eco-responsible or not. And unfortunately, as is often the case when a healthy food becomes fashionable, we have bad surprises…

Coconut oil, good for everything?

A few years ago we were amazed to discover the benefits of shea butter, but since then it is coconut oil that has become the star of healthy food and the minimalist and natural bathroom.

Indeed, it would be a remedy for almost everything, not only for the body but also on the plate and even in the house. It replaces all balms and other moisturizing milks to nourish the skin thanks to its strong emollient and softening power. It can also be used to make virtuous mouthwashes for oral health according to the principle of "Oil Pulling", an Indian mouthwash technique. It can also be used as a mask on the hair (split ends), on the nails and cuticles (to soften them) and as a makeup remover. Finally, it would relieve burns, sunburn, insect bites, eczema, acne... in short, a little miracle in the bathroom and... in the house. You can nourish leather and polish wood with coconut oil.

On the plate, it replaces other vegetable oils and is said to have positive effects on the arteries and the heart. However, its high content of saturated fatty acids (about 92%) makes its health benefits questionable and explains why we should avoid eating it cooked.
Manufacturers are also starting to want to replace palm oil (much criticized) with coconut oil. However, this oil presents many similar ecological problems… as always when a natural product creates a buzz and becomes the trendy food. Like the avocado, its intensive cultivation to meet demand triggers an environmental and social catastrophe.

Coconut oil, not eco-friendly

To begin with, we are talking about coconut oil here and not coconut milk or coconut water. Coconut oil is brandished as a natural alternative to almost everything, except that in reality, consumers and influencers extolling the merits of a healthy and eco-friendly life "forget" that this product is never local: its carbon footprint is bad since it is grown on the other side of the world. And that is the problem: the main coconut producing countries being in Southeast Asia (Indonesia, Philippines), French Polynesia or India, and the main importers being the United States and Europe, it goes without saying that coconut oil will have emitted a lot of greenhouse gases (CO2) to reach the consumer.

Second major pitfall: with the exponential growth in demand, producers are encouraged to produce more and more and to make intensive monoculture. This method exhausts the soil and requires, to maintain profitability, the use of pesticides: toxic products that trigger immediate soil pollution and destruction of the biodiversity of the area. However, this culture is sometimes encouraged by local governments to renew old coconut plantations whose yield is declining, which does not prevent the products from being certified fair trade. In addition, these crops require irrigation in regions where populations sometimes lack water. The environmental impact of the farms has been negative for several years for nature, as well as for humans.

Coconut oil versus palm oil

Thus adorned with a "healthy" and "natural" reputation, coconut oil is often recommended as a replacement for the nasty palm oil, today associated with deforestation and the image of orangutans burned along with the forest.

While it is true that palm oil is an ecological scourge and has no health benefits, it is found in many industrial products because of its low cost. But coconut oil is not so far behind in terms of ecological nuisances. Coconut trees and palm trees require vast areas to grow; they take the place of forests and all their inhabitants. Unfortunately, the production areas are also the most fertile and those with the most precious biodiversity. And they are now being sacrificed. Coconut farms in the Philippines and Indonesia are said to have an even greater negative impact on biodiversity than palm oil plantations. This practice is causing the disappearance of certain endemic species and is now threatening many others, native to the regions where coconut trees are grown. It is probably a matter of time before the immaculate reputation of coconut oil is tarnished like that of palm oil. If the production of coconut oil is not (yet) as dramatic for the ecology as palm oil, notably thanks to coconut trees which can grow almost anywhere, even on sandy soil which reduces deforestation, it is up to us to ensure that it becomes more virtuous.

Coconut oil, social and animal ethics

Another terrible consequence of the increasing demand for coconut oil: monoculture production is favored by industrialists who abandon small farms in favor of sometimes mechanized plantations. Family plantations are marginalized, small farms disappear, and local populations therefore do not benefit at all from this increase in activity. Worse, small farmers no longer have the choice of independence, and are enslaved by large producers who grant them poverty wages. We are talking about $1 per day on average, for the majority of them. This Western frenzy to consume coconut oil therefore ultimately promotes the precariousness and extreme poverty of already weakened populations. Worse, in this quasi-mafia labor market, harvesters also suffer from competition... from monkeys! The exploiters have indeed found nothing better than to capture small monkeys such as pig-tailed macaques, to train them to train them (in conditions that we do not know but which we can guess are not glorious) to climb to the top of coconut trees to pick coconuts. Faster than men, forced to work at will and free of charge, animal exploitation is here pushed to its paroxysm. Separated from its community, trained in a doubtless barbaric manner, used as a tool whose yield must always be increased, the little monkey exploited reduced to slavery, lives in chains with no hope of one day doing anything other than the actions imposed on it. According to PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) the monkeys are trained to be able to pick up to 1,000 coconuts per day!

While this is obviously a practice that should be denounced, it is an entire system that should be reviewed because far from being prosperous farmers, the operators are subject to the oppression of an ever-increasing demand, to which they must respond at the lowest price via an unhealthy market where competition forces them to a price that they cannot set, so that the consumer (therefore us) can buy their coconut oil at a low price too.

Choosing Coconut Oil Better

Coconut oil can be purchased with fair trade or even organic labels, although there are very few of them. But it is mainly by paying a little more and by dissecting the labels that we can try to eliminate low-end products directly resulting from the exploitation of workers on plantations. It is also possible to buy it in bulk from an ethical store that will have verified its source and if possible verified that the supply chains are sustainable. Choose a pure oil and avoid industrial products indicating "deodorized coconut oil", but also "hydrogenated or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils" or even "vegetable fats" which can be mixtures. Finally, we can use networks of consumers committed to the environment, and/or vegan groups that exchange information and publish lists of respectful and ethical brands (Facebook group Vegetarian, Vegan, Vegan & Cool for example), which can guarantee the production methods and guarantee not to use monkeys for picking. A few years ago, upon learning of the exploitation of monkeys, some supermarkets in Great Britain had withdrawn the offending products from sale, forcing suppliers to commit themselves against this practice and to eliminate it.

The Western world absolutely must rethink its consumption because, like everything that experiences exponential growth on the other side of the world, coconut oil becomes a source of problems for nature and for populations. When demand becomes global, the system can no longer rely on human-scale networks or be fair. No intensive cultivation can respect the environment, like those of vanilla, cocoa or avocados. It is up to companies to take responsibility and verify responsible sourcing, but also - and above all - for consumers to demand ethical products and agree to pay a slightly higher price. Because as with fast fashion, when an exotic or very far-off product remains so cheap at the checkout, it is because someone else, on the other side of the world, is paying the full price.

It's hard to do without a deodorant. If you're looking for an effective and safe formula, follow this guide.

The role of perspiration is essential because perspiration allows three things:

• 1. To maintain the ideal body temperature at 37° by a principle of thermoregulation (by exiting through the pores of the skin and in particular via the sweat glands, sweat acts as a natural air conditioner. By beading on all or part of the skin, then evaporating, sweat helps to lower body temperature).
• 2. The skin is one of the body's excretory organs, like the liver, intestines, kidneys, and lungs, which participates in the elimination of toxins. However, it is precisely these toxins (made of bacteria, among other things) that are the cause of the odors that we are trying to mask.
• 3. Sweat is the body's first natural moisturizer. Indeed, on the surface of the skin, it also enters into the composition of the hydrolipidic film (water + fat) which protects the skin and the entire body from dehydration. Two roles which seem contradictory but which are complementary.

Countering sweating is not such a good idea... By the way, are deodorant and antiperspirant the same thing?

Deodorant or antiperspirant, which does what?

The first, thanks to a cocktail of antibacterial agents and perfumes, aims to mask the bad odors generated by the degradation of bacteria present in sweat.

The second, as its name suggests, seeks to block or at least slow down the flow of perspiration. And therefore, to hinder the natural function of the sweat glands. The antiperspirant, with agents that form a layer on the surface of the skin of the armpits, plays a film-forming role by covering these glands. Its second effect, astringent, tightens the pores of the skin and limits perspiration. It is better, if perspiration is felt to be excessive, to resort to a gentler routine: morning and evening, and during the day if necessary, use a washcloth or a cloth wipe, clean your armpits with soapy water, rinse with lukewarm water and dry carefully. This simple and effective action naturally eliminates bacteria on the surface of the skin. Then complete with a deodorant, and not with an antiperspirant, whose formula seems clean to you. And there, we help you…

Does the magic formula exist?

You have not missed the demonization of aluminum salts which, however, still feature prominently in the composition of many so-called "effective" formulas. And for good reason, these famous aluminum salts (just like the Alum stone from which they are derived) tighten the pores of the skin and very effectively limit the action of the sweat glands.

"Labs have tried to replace them with other healthier ingredients," explains Mahault de Guibert, co-founder of La Rosée. "It's not about blocking the natural process, but just limiting its unpleasant effects. We start by absorbing excess sweat with "sponge" active ingredients such as charcoal powder, clay, corn starch, arrowroot powder or diatomaceous earth." As an aside, arrowroot powder is extracted from the rhizome of a tropical plant, maranta arundinacea, which is immersed in hot water before being peeled and crushed. The pulp is extracted, dried and then ground into powder! It gets its funny name from the fact that American Indians used it to treat arrow wounds. Diatomaceous earth comes from a siliceous sedimentary rock, diatomite. Highly porous, these ingredients absorb moisture imperceptibly and gently. Then, these sweat absorbers are combined with healthy odor neutralizers like coconut oil and magnesium.

But the most interesting thing is the new strategy that natural cosmetic laboratories have decided to explore: probiotics .

"Since we know that perspiration raises the pH of the skin and causes the proliferation of odorous bacteria, we superimpose probiotics, "good" bacteria, so that they take the place of the "bad" bacteria. Thus, the microflora is regulated in a way that is very respectful of the skin" explains Mahault de Guibert.

Exit to…

• Alcohols, ethyl alcohol or ethanol, often too irritating.
• Propellant gases (butane, pentane, propane, ethane, isopentane) which are pollutants for the environment as well as for the body.
• Preservatives such as parabens, methylparaben, except sodium benzoate, water-based and well tolerated, sodium, natural preservatives. "There are six or seven different parabens that are not equal in terms of toxicity but it is easier to exclude them. If phenoxyethanol has replaced paraben, some laboratories including ours have preferred to exclude it too" explains Salomé Aldrieux, product manager at Petits Prodiges.
• Silicones found in roll-on deodorants. While these substances offer a soft and creamy formulation, they are not popular with clean brands. "Made from silica, silicones are not natural and are particularly polluting when released into shower water," insists Salomé Aldrieux.
• Please note: aluminum salts, or aluminum chlorohydrate, sweat gland neutralizers that have long been suspected of playing a role in breast cancer, have now been rehabilitated by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, but at certain doses...

Yes to…

• "We say yes to green, clean chemistry , chosen by natural brands, so as not to end up with mold in the deodorant!" explains Mahault de Guibert. Indeed, the preservative cosgard, derived from benzyl alcohol, is one of the few to be approved by Ecocert. But there are also natural preservatives: lemon and citric acid, vitamin E, propolis extract, rosemary essential oil, grapefruit seed extract.
• Yes, of course, to formulas that exclude everything that is “out”, to those that rely on probiotics or fruit acids. “These modify the pH of the skin and limit the proliferation of bacteria, without compromising the natural process of perspiration” specifies Salomé Aldrieux.
• Yes to Ecocert-labeled brands whose charter is demanding. You are more likely to find the deodorant of your dreams in solid, roll-on or spray form without propellant gases. The “gas” format, a disaster for the planet, is increasingly difficult to convince…
• We also say yes to homemade deodorant, when the phobia of dubious labels encourages you to start do it yourself. There are many recipes but if you rely on aloe vera gel, special cosmetic baking soda, certain essential oils (palmarosa, lavender, rose), organic coconut oil, beeswax, arrowroot powder or diatomaceous earth, you will get good results.

It all started in 2005 with parabens, and the list has grown over the years. The ingredients deemed suspect are so for various reasons. Here is a non-exhaustive list of these main components at the heart of the controversy and to be banned in cosmetics.

First of all, let's remember that in France, cosmetics are subject to European regulations, which are very strict and constantly evolving through studies conducted by groups of scientists within the CSSC ( European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety). In addition, manufacturers and brands, sensitized by public opinion - and anxious to sell - often get ahead of the legislation by eliminating ingredients that cause controversy. On the other hand, we must distinguish why these ingredients are put in the hot seat. Some are problematic because they are not ecological, others because they can cause irritation or allergies. And finally, there are those that are suspected of being endocrine disruptors or carcinogens.

The BHT

While BHA, classified as a "possible carcinogen" by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC), toxic to reproduction and an endocrine disruptor, is almost no longer present in cosmetic compositions, BHT is still widespread. Also used as an antioxidant to protect fatty substances in formulas from rancidity and perfumes from oxidation, it is suspected, like BHA, of being allergenic, sensitizing, neurotoxic and an estrogenic endocrine disruptor , responsible for male fertility problems. Finally, it is said to be persistent in the body and the environment. Anses has contacted the European authorities so that it can be reassessed.

Titanium Dioxide

In food, titanium dioxide, or additive E171, has been banned since January ¹ , 2020. A study by INRA (National Institute for Agricultural Research) raised concerns that its "nano" form could be carcinogenic if ingested and inhaled. In cosmetics, titanium dioxide, of mineral origin, is used as a white pigment in makeup, as an opacifier and especially as a filter in sunscreens (it is authorized in organic, even in its nano form). On the skin, it does not pose any problems. However, it is banned in powders and sprays and poses a problem for the people who formulate it.

Chemical sunscreens

There is no question of doing without them, given the massive increase in skin cancers over the past 30 years. However, some chemical filters are in the hot seat, for various reasons. The first of the accusations is that of endocrine disruption. Even if nothing has been proven, the following are suspected of being so: avobenzone, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate), benzophenone-1 and -3 (oxybenzone), octocrylene, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (4-MBC) and homosalate.

In addition, a study on octocrylene, published in the journal Chemical Research in Toxicology in March 2021 and conducted by researchers from the Banyuls-sur-Mer Oceanographic Observatory (Sorbonne University/CNRS), shows that this filter is transformed into benzophenone – another potentially carcinogenic and endocrine disrupting filter – by a chemical reaction as soon as it is produced, and that the concentration systematically increases over time in finished products. Many brands have thus removed octocrylene from their products in 2022, as it has already been implicated in a cross-allergy with ketoprofen treatments.

However, according to the standards set by European Regulations, the quantities applied, limited to a few months per year, are not problematic. But discharged into the water, not filtered by treatment plants, they are ingested by living organisms that end up on our plates...

Because this is the other complaint, and not the least: the effect of chemical sunscreens on the environment. Indeed, if they filter UV rays on the skin, chemical filters also do so in water. Thus, the thousands of tons of non-biodegradable filters discharged annually into bathing waters prevent the sun's rays from reaching the seabed and disturb the organisms living there.

Numerous studies have shown that these filters have a negative impact on marine organisms: in December 2018, a study by French researchers revealed that octocrylene accumulates in corals in the form of fatty acid derivatives and can interfere with their metabolism. A study published in 2015 by researchers at Tel Aviv University revealed that oxybenzone – or benzophenone – distorts the morphology of coral larvae by damaging their DNA. Some chemical filters have thus been banned in tourist areas: the Palau archipelago was the first, in 2020, to ban ten components including oxybenzone (Benzophenone-3 on the INCI list) and octinoxate (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate), two chemical filters also banned in Hawaii since January ^1, 2021. Territories with coral reefs, such as the US Virgin Islands or the Republic of the Marshall Islands, have also banned octocrylene. Sometimes, the use of any sunscreen is prohibited, particularly when visiting certain cenotes (caveats/caves) in Mexico or Lifou in New Caledonia.

Mineral oils

Derived from the distillation of petroleum after separation of light combustible hydrocarbons (gas, gasoline, fuel), mineral oils, under the Inci names parafinium liquidium, cera microcristallina, synthetic wax, vaseline, etc., are inert elements. They are used both to provide slip and shine to makeup products and to form an emollient film-forming barrier in care products preventing water loss (body and hand balms, lip balms, foot creams). In addition to their petrochemical origin, they are also occlusive and induce, aggravate or prolong acne.

Methylisothiazolinone (MIT) and methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCIT)

The questioning of parabens ended up leading to that of Methylisothiazolinone (MIT) and Methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCIT). Until then used in low doses, they suddenly became an alternative widely used by manufacturers, causing irritations and allergies. The health authorities therefore banned the MCIT-MIT combination in leave-on products from April 2016. Then MIT alone was banned in these same products by the European Union from February 12, 2017.

Parabens

Since 2005 and the "great paraben crisis", these preservatives, which prevent the development of bacteria and mold in creams and all water-based products, are no longer in the odor of sanctity. Used in cosmetics since 1920, they are also found in food products under the names E214 to E219 and in a considerable number of medicines, at much higher doses than in cosmetics. The most dangerous (isobutyl, isopropyl, benzyl, pentyl, phenylparaben) have been banned since 2014. Conversely, the short-chain ones, ethylparaben and methylparaben, have been cleared by French and European experts. Propylparaben and butylparaben remain, suspected of being endocrine disruptors, and banned in leave-on products intended for children under 3 years old. In fact, they are almost no longer used, their negative reputation in the public opinion having led to their elimination by almost all cosmetic brands. And yet, toxicologists recognize it: authorized parabens (methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl parabens) are excellent preservatives, broad spectrum, with very few side effects, and on which we have very good hindsight, unlike those used more recently.

The PEGs

Polyethylene glycols, used as emollients and emulsifiers or as thickeners in formulas, are made from ethylene oxide, a highly reactive and toxic gas, carcinogenic and mutagenic. It is therefore for environmental reasons that they are criticized: their manufacturing method, and the fact that they are found in wastewater.

Phenoxyethanol

An antibacterial and antimicrobial preservative, phenoxyethanol is widely used and much criticized. First of all, its transformation includes ethoxylation, a polluting and toxic process for handlers. It is also potentially irritating, and can cause contact eczema. Studies with high doses have shown it to be hepatotoxic on mice. Finally, it is suspected of being carcinogenic and an endocrine disruptor. But on these last points, no study has demonstrated it and the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, under the aegis of the European Commission, has judged it safe for all users.

Aluminum Salts

What we call aluminum salts is found in the INCI formula under the name aluminum chlorohydrate. These mini particles have the property of almost closing the pores through which sweat flows and therefore stopping the production of perspiration. However, they have been accused in several ways. First of all, because it is never good to stop a natural process. On the other hand, the chlorine function of these aluminum salts allows them to penetrate, which has led some scientists to accuse them of causing breast cancer. After ten years of controversy, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), an independent expert committee of the European Commission, issued an opinion at the end of 2019 exonerating the use of aluminum salts in cosmetics. After conducting a battery of additional tests and analyzing the latest scientific studies, it concluded that aluminum compounds are risk-free as long as the dose limits for use are respected, namely 10.60% aluminum for antiperspirant sprays and 6.25% for those formulated in other forms. This document, which supplements the 2014 opinion, specifies that "these latest results show, among other things, that the aluminum contained in antiperspirant products is not absorbed by the skin, including freshly shaved skin, nor is it stored in the skin, but on the contrary is eliminated on clothing, by natural desquamation of the superficial horny layer and during washing." And therefore does not cause breast cancer.

Silicones

These silica derivatives – dimethicone, dimethiconol or name ending in "siloxane" – are widely used for the silky or powdery touch they give in care and makeup. This slipperiness, which facilitates application, to detangle, sheath and bring shine to the hair in shampoos, masks and serums.

The problem? They are not very biodegradable, even if their toxicological effects are minimal. On the one hand, they are criticized for their bioaccumulation: they accumulate on the hair (it would take more than a month to completely eliminate them) without treating them, and ultimately prevent coloring or perms from penetrating properly. They would also clog the pores of the skin. As for their biodegradability problem, we are seeing the emergence of new generations of silicones, light and water-soluble, which require a lower dosage to avoid the weighting and comedogenic effects and which degrade much better in nature.

Furthermore, two volatile silicones – cyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and cyclopentasiloxane (D5) – suspected of being endocrine disruptors, particularly for aquatic organisms and recognized as persistent, bioaccumulative and toxic, have been limited to 0.1% in rinsed products since January 2020.

Sulfates

These are foaming agents – anionic surfactants – which form an abundant foam and wash very effectively. Very inexpensive, they are found in shampoos, shower gels, liquid soaps but also in all laundry detergents under the names sodium laureth sulfate (the most common) and ammonium lauryl sulfate (authorized in organic). They are mainly accused of being very stripping, potentially irritating, of “washing out” colorings and of disrupting the microbiota of the scalp. In addition, “laureth” requires ethoxylation, a polluting transformation which explains why it is prohibited in organic products.

How beautiful is my nail polish! But is it organic? To see things more clearly and stop getting tangled up, follow the guide with Alexis Robillard, founder of the clean makeup brand ALL TIGERS .

The good weather is coming with the return of colormania on fingernails, toenails... "For some time now, comments Alexis Robillard, head of the clean makeup brand ALL TIGERS, we have seen two strong trends on the nail polish market: the explosion of green nail polishes and, on the other hand, that of semi-permanent." Suffice to say that the two trends are totally opposed in their philosophy since we are moving from the very synthetic to the most eco-friendly possible. Eco-friendly, not organic. Because "to date, it is still impossible to offer organic nail polishes that really last and whose color does not run after the first hand wash!" specifies the young, committed entrepreneur.

Hold and shine!

Indeed, when it comes to nail polish, women are very demanding. Coverage, shine, hold... everything must be comparable to a traditional nail polish! Hence the great risk of disappointing them if the nail polish does not keep its promises (or does not hold at all!). Hence the flop in 2011 of the launch of the first certified organic nail polishes, very quickly withdrawn from the market following negative opinions from consumers. In their eyes, the ideal natural nail polish is necessarily multi-tasking: the color must shine like a new penny, the choice of shades must be a multiple of nine and the hold must be as good as it gets! In short, a real technological achievement! If you add to these wishes, the specifications of the green philosophy (no plastics, decried active ingredients, agents linked to petrochemicals, etc.), and the complexity linked to the manufacture of the nail polish itself, you will understand that the brands that have launched into green nail polish are still in the minority. It's not easy to offer clean nail polish!

Eco-sourced active ingredients and “free from” formulas

It must be said that we started from a long way back with original formulas containing an incredible number of ingredients that are now criticized (carcinogenic or endocrine disruptors, etc.). The composition of a classic varnish? Plasticizers, solvents, preservatives, etc. Most of them are derived from petrochemical derivatives.
Little by little, European legislation has cracked down by banning certain ingredients such as dibutyl phthalate, classified and banned in Europe as an endocrine disruptor . Then, coming straight from the United States, the trend of "Nails Free" 7, 9 or 10 (i.e. varnishes without 7/9/10 ingredients) has shaken things up. No more toxic components such as toluene (irritating to the skin and eyes), DBT (suspected of being an endocrine disruptor), formaldehyde (allergenic), formaldehyde resins, rosin and parabens...

© ALL TIGERS

Cassava and sweet potato

Today, in clean formulas, varnish formulators use cassava, sugar cane, corn, sweet potato to replace the solvents and plasticizers of traditional formulas. The ingredients are also "bio-sourced" (more processed than so-called natural products), which is already a great step forward compared to classic varnishes!
In terms of performance in terms of hold, green nail polishes have nothing to be ashamed of. However, today, in view of technological advances, the pigments used in green nail polishes are still synthetic pigments. Indeed, their natural cousins ​​do not take in the formulas and offer a non-uniform color result. In terms of care, most brands integrate active care ingredients into the formulas... of natural origin of course, such as green tea, pomegranate, lotus extract... In total, green nail polish formulas can contain up to 85% of ingredients of natural origin.
On the other hand, note that not all “green” varnishes are vegan, so we invite you to check the composition of your favorite product. And tomorrow? Maybe a semi-permanent green varnish that really ticks all the boxes of naturalness!

Our favorite green nail polish brands on Instagram: @ alltigers_organics , @ nailmatic , the green line from @ manucurist , @ cleverbeautyfr , @ nailcoutureparis , @ avrilcosmetiques , @ kurebazaar , @ zoyanailpolish , @ zaomakeup_official , @ orijinal.cosmetics , @ nailberry_

Thanks to Alexis Robillard, founder of the clean makeup brand ALL TIGERS, for his insight.

Born in the USA, clean beauty is now as essential there as it is here. But why is it so successful? We'll tell you everything.

A name and a concept born in the USA, quite logically, because it is the country where everything is possible. While in France more than 1300 substances are simply banned, in the United States via the FDA (Federal Drugs Administration), the list is limited to only ten or so hated substances! So much so that when clean beauty was born in the USA for beautystas to find their way around, it was an immediate triumph. Why this dazzling success that is spreading to the four corners of the planet?

Because clean beauty is reassuring

The rules, even if they are neither written nor protected by an official label, consist of offering natural brands, organic most often, but not necessarily, sustainable, fair, eco-responsible, ethical, local, ecological, cruelty free, transparent (hence the notion of "clear beauty") and of course, without exploitation of children. This clean beauty, still a little vague (but less and less), quickly swept over France where its success is only growing. The boost? The pandemic which has more than ever put short circuits, healthy products and the notion of solidarity at the heart of consumers' priorities.

Because the skin is asking for it (again)

The craze for long and, above all, obscure formulas is over. Skins are demanding " less is more ", and so are women. Clear, understandable, traceable formulas, with known, recognized and natural active ingredients. These short formulas, which respect the epidermis' ecosystem, are perfectly tolerated. And for good reason, the skin is increasingly sensitized by lifestyle (where stress still plays a major role), climate change (and increased pollution ), processed food (it harms the microbiota , the intestinal flora and therefore all flora, including that of the skin ). Sensitized, to the point of becoming intolerant or allergic, the skin can only tolerate clean cosmetics.

Because clean brands make sense

Far from simply concocting clean formulas on "principle" or for marketing purposes, the brands that have been caught up in the clean wave are doing so consciously. Eager to contribute to building a better world, they define themselves as eco-citizens and stand out for their actions in favor of protecting the environment: by reducing their carbon footprint, by favoring eco-designed packaging (recycled, recyclable, refillable, in glass or aluminum rather than plastic or recycled plastic from the oceans), by donating a portion of their profits to causes (preservation of the oceans, fauna, flora, participation in the greening of cities, reforestation, etc.), by focusing their research on subjects that go beyond the content of their formulas (marine active ingredients contain a treasure trove of benefits and therapeutic promises that go beyond the health and beauty of the skin, etc.). Clean brands have a mission, inspired by their founders, and that's what makes them powerful.

Because clean beauty is becoming more democratic!

Thanks to social networks and influential women's media that talk about it a lot, consumers have become familiar with it. And since Distribution has given it a prominent place, it is easier to find: at Oh My Cream! (the pioneer), on green e-commerce sites like Botymist (which allows you to search for products based on the list of their ingredients and active ingredients), in department stores, good pharmacies, etc. Influencers talk about it seriously and enthusiastically, saving as much time as possible for novices who want to consume clean. We like Lauren Ferrée , a committed eco-blogger, Céleste Thomas , an American influencer, nurse, who also gives daily advice on her blog , Lyla , the French influencer whose blog presents all the themes of clean beauty in the form of advice, tests and tutorials, etc. The more we talk about it (well), the more clean beauty earns its letters of nobility.

And to tell you the truth, we haven't finished talking about it.

Babies with burning cheeks, children who can't bend their knees and are desperately scratching the folds of their arms... 20% of children under 7 years old and 15% of infants from 3 months old (figures from the French Society of Dermatology) suffer from Atopic Dermatitis, the scientific name for eczema. What are the solutions to relieve them?

What is eczema or atopic dermatitis?

According to its “official definition”, atopic dermatitis – or atopic eczema – is a chronic inflammatory disease of the skin due to an abnormality of the immune response and a deficiency of the skin barrier .

What triggers eczema?

Like many chronic skin diseases, eczema is of multifactorial origin. There is both a genetic factor (between 50 and 70% of affected children have a parent who is also affected and if both parents are affected, the risk reaches 80%), an immune factor (increased sensitization to certain pathogens and allergens) and an environmental factor (including pollution ).

The explanation? Healthy skin constitutes a defensive barrier against external agents. But skin affected by atopic dermatitis lacks ceramides in its horny layer , and like a leaky wall, it lets attackers (pathogens and allergens) pass through and its defenders (its hydration) escape.

What to do against eczema?

At the first symptoms, it is essential to consult a dermatologist who will prescribe a treatment (corticosteroids applied locally during flare-ups) but will also be able to see if there is an atopic "terrain". Atopic dermatitis is in fact considered the cutaneous aspect of Atopy which also includes allergic asthma, rhinitis and conjunctivitis.

What are the symptoms of eczema?

Atopic dermatitis is marked by permanent skin dryness, with regular outbreaks of what is commonly called eczema, most often punctuated by teething and nasopharyngeal infections in infants. Red patches and inflammatory lesions (erythema, vesicles) appear, accompanied by severe itching. By scratching, there can be superinfections. The appearance of scabs announces the remission phase.

In infants, these patches are located on the cheeks, arms, thighs and abdomen.
Then, in children and adolescents, they migrate to the folds (back of the knees, crook of the arms), hands and feet, around the mouth and even the eyelids. The attacks can again be linked to an infection or vaccination, but also to stress (exam, family crisis, etc.). In many, atopy calms down (like asthma) after 6 years, but the skin remains dry. 4% remain atopic in adulthood.

Atopy is more or less severe, there is a scale used by dermatologists to evaluate it, called SCORAD (or Scoring atopic dermatitis).

The effects of eczema

Along with acne, atopic dermatitis is one of the skin diseases that most impacts social life. The constant itching can cause severe psychological distress. In young children, the itching, which persists at night, can ruin sleep and life, and consequently that of an entire family. School-age children sometimes feel excluded because of the way others look at them. Some even try to hide their legs or arms under clothing, or no longer want to go to school. Finally, the itching sensations are so painful that they can cause irritability and bad moods. The deterioration of self-image is also accentuated in young girls suffering from eyelid eczema who cannot wear makeup.

The care products to use and the right actions to follow

The treatment prescribed by the dermatologist or pediatrician is based on dermocorticoids in the event of an outbreak, to be used locally for 3 days on average.
But dermatologists have found that attacks can be spaced out considerably by applying the right care and the right actions.

A gentle toilet

This should be done with a cleansing oil or dermatological bar. Classic soap and shower gel are much too aggressive and stripping. Avoid hot and long baths, which increase the permeability of the skin. Instead, take a lukewarm 5-minute shower. When you get out of the shower or after washing your hands, dab your skin with the softest towel possible and do not rub. Your skin is already fragile enough!

Daily hydration

The best treatment for atopic skin remains the daily application of a specific emollient. Their long-term use not only has a beneficial effect on skin dryness, but studies have shown that it allows flare-ups to be spaced out and therefore the need for dermocorticoids to be reduced. These emollients must have a high concentration of nourishing vegetable oils and butters, soothing active ingredients, and even antibacterial ingredients in their formula to prevent the proliferation of Staphylococcus Aureus.

The problem: it's tedious, because the formulas, even if they have greatly improved in naturalness and texture, remain quite thick and we often run after the children to manage to spread them. But it's a habit to take from a very young age and that must be made fun with a song, a story or a game, because these children will have to learn to coat themselves alone and practice this gesture all their lives. There are also Therapeutic Education programs within hospital departments to learn how to take care of themselves.

Good habits

• To teach the little ones: during flare-ups, do not scratch with your nails, which are aggressive and potentially carry germs, but with the palm or the back of your hand.
• For clothing, we prefer loose cuts to limit friction on the skin, and cotton or silk rather than wool.
• Thermal cures: prescribed by a doctor and reimbursed by health insurance, 3-week thermal cures have proven their effectiveness on pathologies such as atopy. In addition to general hydrothermal treatments (baths, showers, massages) and daily local treatments, it is a place of therapeutic education and exchange through games and workshops for the youngest. It allows young children to relieve their symptoms and acquire more autonomy. Around ten French thermal spas are indicated for dermatology

What to Avoid in Case of Atopic Dermatitis

Since atopic skin is fragile and porous, it is essential to be extra vigilant about the cosmetics used and their composition. Be careful because many blogs and other articles denigrate certain cosmetics, particularly conventional ones, and sometimes promote products that are just as bad for this skin.

Prohibited ingredients

• Perfumed cosmetic products : whether synthetic or natural perfume, we avoid them for hypersensitive skin, because there are as many allergens (if not more) in a natural perfume as in a synthetic one.
• Potentially irritating or allergenic preservatives : MIT, MCIT should be avoided, as they are irritating, as is benzoic acid, which is authorized in organic products.
• Sulfates, the foaming agents in most classic shower gels, are too harsh for these skins. They disrupt the microbiota and the hydrolipidic film.
• Soap : AVOID! Except for cold saponified soap, fragrance-free, with a high oil content of the best quality, i.e. a soap purchased from a small soap maker and paid more than €10. Forget industrial soap, which is extremely stripping and has a pH that is far too high, including Marseille soap !
• Lanolin: derived from sheep fat, it is highly allergenic. However, it is more than rare to find it in a specific emollient for atopic skin.
• Endocrine disruptors : obviously, as for everyone, but again, they are difficult to detect and many brands eliminate them. We therefore favor, it is obvious, products with a Clean charter but above all products stamped "tested under dermatological control" and even "under pediatric control".

A healthy environment

We use a hypoallergenic detergent for laundry but also for sheets for atopic people, to avoid all surfactants and perfumes. Also be careful not to use fabric softener because it is the last rinse water that contains it.

We avoid all household products and furniture containing volatile organic compounds (VOCs): construction materials, decoration, insulation, paints, thinners, glues and varnishes, but also cleaning agents, air fresheners, stain removers, insecticides and descaling agents.

Microbiota, a way forward for atopy

Advances in knowledge of what was once called skin flora have shown that the diversity and balance between the microorganisms that make up the microbiota prevent colonization by aggressive species and participate in the defenses of the skin's immune system. However, we now know, thanks to a study published in the journal Nature, that atopic dermatitis is closely linked to a strong imbalance in this microbiota and to the overdevelopment of Staphylococcus aureus in it. It attaches to the skin and creates a shield that contributes to amplifying eczema flare-ups, dryness and itching. While corticosteroids remain the standard treatment, we are discovering the benefit of creating emollients enriched with active ingredients (pre and post biotics) that help rebalance the microbiota, reduce the inflammatory factor and prevent Staphylococcus aureus from settling in. It is to counteract the latter that certain brands have developed pre and post biotic complexes.

The food routine

Breastfeeding until 6 months, especially if there is a history of atopic dermatitis in the family, helps reduce the risk of food allergies in the baby. It is better to introduce certain foods late, and only one by one, such as eggs and fish (after 12 months), as well as all oilseeds (after 3 years).

If atopic dermatitis is not linked to a particular food, some can make it worse, especially those that have a pro-inflammatory action or promote acidity in the body . Thus, acidic sweat can promote attacks. It is therefore necessary to favor a basic diet (fruits, vegetables, legumes and whole grains). Plants, rich in antioxidants, help fight inflammation. Obviously, you must eat a balanced diet, avoid sugary and processed foods , saturated fats (cooked butter and margarine, cold cuts, fried foods, chips, etc.), junk food. Some atopic people also suffer from irritable bowel syndrome, which tends to acidify the body. In this case, it is better to dissociate the intake of starchy foods and fruits and vegetables, and see if the symptoms reduce when you eliminate gluten and cow's milk products. But also, because atopy is linked to a dysbiosis of the microbiota, and because the intestinal microbiota and the skin microbiota are closely linked, eat foods rich in pre and probiotics and in particular all fermented foods (yogurts, kefir, kombucha, etc.). We can also supplement this diet rich in fermented foods with food supplements rich in probiotics.

What if the best skincare booster was simply… Temperature. Cold, like heat, has virtues to choose according to the skin’s needs.

First clue: take a look at your hair dryer, if it is recent enough you will find a switch to allow it to blow both hot (often very hot) and cold. And for good reason, if hot allows you to give a shape to the hair, cold closes the scales and fixes the shape. And well on the skin side, it's the same, cold and hot act on the tissues, blood vessels, the lymphatic network but also on the cells, in short, temperatures affect the body as much as they affect morale.

What is heat good for?

To make skin clear

A small facial sauna opens the pores, allows to extract the comedones, without mistreating the skin. Just boil water in a saucepan, add two or three drops of geranium essential oil and place your face above, a towel around everything to keep the sauna effect. The pores dilate. The skin becomes healthier.

For a beautiful complexion

Drinking a bowl of hot water also has a healthy glow and a pretty complexion. Indeed, add a dash of lemon juice and you will give your liver a boost for better digestion. A dull complexion will clear up! To be consumed occasionally or as a cure but not all year round at the risk of damaging your teeth with the acidity of the lemon. Unless you drink it with a straw.

To chase away tensions

Immersed in a hot bath, around 38°, you feel the body's tensions disappear, the muscles relax and well-being take over you. The pores of the body's skin open, toxins are eliminated. Indeed, the skin is one of the most effective emunctories. From 12 minutes, we know that the active ingredients in the bath penetrate the skin barrier, so if you have slipped essential oils, salts, algae, sea water etc... you will have the benefits beyond this time. Be careful not to stay more than about twenty minutes beyond which the bath water cools down and you too. When getting out of the bath, remember to moisturize your skin well with milk or cream.

For deep hair care

A mask without heat does not penetrate the heart of the hair! So do not hesitate to proceed as at the hairdresser: apply a treatment then place a damp and very hot towel (placed in the microwave) on the entire length of the hair while the treatment penetrates. Then rinse with hot water, then lukewarm and finish with a cool jet to tighten the hair scales. And there you have the combination of hot and cold for the keys to a successful beauty routine.

What is cold good for?

To soothe pain and gain energy

It is well known that after matches, rugby players immerse themselves in a large bin filled with ice cubes to recover and calm muscle tension. A process used to relieve certain myalgias and boost tone. The process is being developed in some institutes and offices with cryotherapy sessions by wearing shorts and a sports top refrigerated to -160° for just a few minutes or standing in a refrigerated cabin. When the entire body is in contact with the cold, it is a real boost to the metabolism and the quality of the skin! The body temperature drops by a few degrees, the vessels contract. When contact with the cold stops after 3 minutes, the body temperature rises, the vessels dilate, blood circulation is activated and the body secretes endorphins which generate a feeling of well-being, reducing pain in the process.

To energize the skin

Good news, the cold has a real effect on the quality of the skin. It tightens the pores and causes a phenomenon of vasodilation which reactivates the skin's microcirculation. Blood circulation in the capillaries is improved, leading to a real boost in the complexion! There are masks to put in the freezer, but you can also place ice cubes in a thin cloth and gently pass them over the skin. The skin toned by the cold, slackens less whether it is around the face or on the whole body for the bravest who finish their shower with an icy jet...

To reduce puffiness

On puffy eyes, cold also works wonders. Pat and smooth the eye contour with cold. Valuable alternative: a jade or rose quartz roller kept in the refrigerator will have the same vasoconstricting and de-puffing effect as ice cubes.

To boost the effect of the treatments

Not only does cold preserve the active ingredients in creams, serums and other creamy or liquid textures for longer, but it also increases their effects tenfold when the treatments are intended to relieve heavy legs or create an ice cube effect on the face in the event of heatstroke or burns. This action also increases the effectiveness of treatments intended to tighten the pores of combination or oily skin. With tightened pores, sebum secretion decreases.

For shiny hair

By tightening the scales, the hair is shinier and softer. It is no coincidence that more and more salons and hair spas offer hair cryotherapy treatments, combining nourishing care and smoothing with ice plates before rinsing with warm then cold water for a toning and sheathing effect.

For light legs

Beyond the treatments to put in the fridge, a daily cold shower on the legs, from the feet to the thighs, at the end of the day immediately chases away the feeling of heavy legs, fatigue and numbness. Be careful, if you are too prone to cramps, avoid ice-cold showers on the legs. Prefer a lukewarm shower and finish with a slightly cooler jet.

Vegan cosmetics seem to be the absolute must in terms of respect for the planet and animals. Indeed, with a vegan formula it is the assurance that no animal substance enters into the composition of the product, and thus that no being, from insects to marine animals, has been exploited. But is vegan beauty necessarily clean and virtuous? The point.

Vegan cosmetics, definition

Being vegan means choosing not to use or consume any animal product or product derived from animal exploitation, in all areas of your life. No fish, meat or dairy products on your plate, no leather, wool and even less fur for clothing and no ingredients of animal origin in cosmetics. Indeed, it happens that animal products or by-products are used in the composition of creams or makeup. Fortunately, some ingredients have already been banned or abandoned because they are too expensive, such as animal musk used in perfumes and responsible for the near-disappearance of the chevrotins from which it was extracted, whale fat or hyaluronic acid which previously came from rooster combs and which are now no longer of animal origin. Furthermore, the ingredients of animal origin still used can only come from animals farmed for the manufacture of cosmetics in Europe and can be used in the composition of an organic product. These can include honey and beeswax (in lip balms, for example), lanolin, an emollient ingredient used in moisturizers obtained from sheep's wool, or "carmine," a red pigment used to color lipsticks derived from cochineal insects that are crushed. Makeup brush bristles can also be of animal origin!

Vegan, organic, cruelty-free, slow cosmetics: what are the differences?

There are many names to classify the different families of cosmetics.

If organic labels indicate formulas based on ingredients from organic farming that respect the organic charter, they authorize animal materials such as honey, but also carmine, from cochineal, and lanolin.

Slow Cosmetics brings together products recognized by the independent label of the same name which supports the planet, local manufacturing and natural formulas.

On its side, "cruelty free" is a label given to products that do not contain any ingredients tested on animals but which are not necessarily vegan, because it accepts ingredients produced by animals (milk, honey). It is therefore available in a "cruelty free vegan" version.

The names of vegan cosmetics are also varied and numerous: Expertise Vegan Europe with the acronym Eve Vegan, the acronym Vegan from Vegan Society for products certified by the Vegan Association, Vegan from the Awareness Foundation, a vegan logo issued by Vegan Awareness or the VeganOK label. Overall, they guarantee that the products do not contain ingredients of animal origin. However, the One Voice label accepts organic honey, pollen and beeswax, which can therefore be found in the formulas it certifies.

It is not mandatory to certify vegan cosmetics to claim it: brands can invent their own logo and communicate on it, without control, which can give rise to abuse. In France there is only one vegan certification body, it is Expertise Végane Europe. Finally, unlike natural and/or organic labels dedicated to ecology which guarantee that the products do not contain any polluting synthetic ingredients, vegan products may not be natural, not be produced in a virtuous manner, or even be very artificial, as long as there is no animal matter. The "vegan" criterion is therefore not enough to be sure of buying ecological and healthy cosmetics.

Vegan cosmetics are not always clean

Buying vegan cosmetics would therefore mainly respond to the concerns of consumers - vegan or not - for animal protection. Problem: if the acronym "vegan" does not guarantee that the formula is clean, nor that it is free of controversial ingredients, it also does not guarantee animal protection for the ingredients it uses. For example, coconut oil is vegetable and therefore completely compatible with a vegan formula, and yet, it often exploits small monkeys. The same goes for palm oil which involves deforestation and the death of orangutans... yet it can replace squalene which comes from shark livers... Furthermore, certain ingredients of animal origin that do not involve the death of animals may seem tolerable, such as lanolin (a fat made from sheep's wool), goat's, donkey's, sheep's or cow's milk, or even beehive products. However, when looking at their production, we see that many bees die during the industrial process of harvesting wax or honey. Finally, when a brand wants to make its products vegan, it often has no choice but to turn to petrochemical substitutes to remain competitive, in particular.

Beware of the "castor oil" that is often found in ingredient lists, it is a false friend: it is indeed a vegetable oil, castor oil, and not castor oil! Phew!

Vegan or Clean Cosmetics, How to Choose?

Given the ecological emergency, consuming vegan products makes sense: industrial farming finds in cosmetics an easy outlet for its animal by-products. Intensive farming and overfishing are extremely harmful to the planet, devastating natural spaces while being hell for animals. Unfortunately, it is much easier for a cosmetic to be vegan than clean, organic or natural, and some formulas highlight their vegan character to mask very synthetic formulas: you can be clean without being vegan and vegan without being clean.

To ensure that you choose a virtuous product, you must therefore turn to those that meet an ethical, ecological and sustainable commitment. The ideal is clean or certified organic AND vegan products in order to ensure the origin of the ingredients and their naturalness, but also the sustainable nature of the packaging: reduced packaging, recyclable and recycled material, cardboard cases, vegetable inks, etc. while avoiding any ingredient from animal exploitation. Vegetable waxes, such as carnauba wax, then replace beeswax, shark squalene can be replaced by vegetable "squalene" from olive, wheat or rice oil, lanolin will be ousted in favor of vegetable oils that are much more effective for treating skin problems. Plant active ingredients can also act on the production of collagen instead of putting animal collagen in the formula, just like using keratin in its vegetable version. Only the carmine pigment does not find an equivalent to its color intensity in the mineral or plant world, but very beautiful vegan lipsticks manage very well to do without it today and to offer vibrant colors: no more excuses!

Vegan cosmetics can come from truly committed and virtuous brands whose products are ecological, just as they can be derived from petrochemicals and be undemanding about quality as long as there is nothing animal in them. But by turning to brands stamped clean or organic, with a real ecological commitment, we can find truly virtuous products to make ourselves beautiful and feel good, while respecting and protecting the planet, its animals and its ecosystems. So the rejection of ingredients of animal origin in cosmetics makes perfect sense. Go vegan and clean!

Talking about "adopted" blonde means talking about bleaching, most of the time. Indeed, fans of this color rarely naturally belong to this family. So to enter this highly prized club of successful blonde, you have to go through bleaching. OK, but what's clean in all this? Let's get this straight.

Bleaching, coloring, what exactly is it? The principle of bleaching consists of eliminating, more or less and more or less quickly, the natural pigments that are inside the hair fiber, by using oxidation. We do not completely empty the hair of its original color, we lighten it up to eight tones maximum. A dark hair, for example, will evolve towards red, before arriving at yellow, a future harmonious blond… But the process does not stop there, since it is then necessary to recharge the hair with pigments of the desired color. The good news? today there are plant-based colorings.

What is plant-based coloring?

Be careful, there is plant-based coloring and plant-based coloring, warn Sarah Horlaville El Kamel, head of education for France at Aveda and Céline Herbeaux, advisor within the Couleurs de Jeanne advisory team. A real plant-based coloring only combines dye plants such as turmeric, henna, walnut husk, indigo, and care powders based on other plants, such as marshmallow or jujube. It is superimposed on the natural color.

For blondes who want to achieve a cooler or warmer blonde, more uniform or brighter, there are plants like chamomile or turmeric (provide golden highlights), indigo (neutralizes red, yellow highlights and darkens slightly), red henna (intensifies the warm side). A 100% plant-based coloring only uses a mixture of plants and not an oxidant. Otherwise, it is a "fake plant-based coloring" kit.

If you opt for a homemade color, read the bottle carefully and if you see ammonia, polyquaternium, propylene glycol, or toluenes, move on! Be careful, hair maintained with silicone shampoos or treatments will not be able to hold the plant-based coloring. The pigments will slide on the cuticle. To reset the hair "to zero" after years of silicone treatments or other treatments that clog the hair, do a clay treatment to detoxify it for three weeks, before considering your plant-based coloring.

A “clean” or almost “clean” blonde… does it exist?

All the experts agree that to go blonde when you have a naturally dark color, you have to go through the bleaching process. However, bleaching is not, for the moment, clean since it necessarily requires a chemical process. Unless you are content with the reflections of the sun.

For Romain, colorist, creator of Romain Colors, specialist in gentle, vegan and organic coloring, gentleness is always essential when talking about hair, even if it all depends on the base color.

According to him, it is impossible to bleach hair without oxidant and persalts. But, to soften this process, he uses a plant/chemical mixture: a highlight with clay, kaolin, rice powder, mixed with oxidants in reasonable doses in order to respect the integrity of the fiber as much as possible. Be careful, even the cleanest possible bleachings must be compatible with plant-based colorings. Because plant-based coloring is not compatible with everything. And for good reason, a plant-based coloring can contain indigo, which does not combine very well with bleaches that risk changing the desired color. This is why a plant-based coloring cannot be done immediately after a chemical bleaching. And this is not always known... Even if, and this is its advantage, plant-based coloring respects the hair. Indeed, its active process stops naturally, unlike chemical coloring which continues its work in the heart of the hair. Which explains why plant-based coloring offers a very natural and highly sought-after transparency!

Bleaching, coloring, really not clean

Concretely, to bleach the hair, we use lightening agents (such as hydrogen peroxide, i.e. oxygenated water), which under the effect of a catalyst (ammonia), will lighten the natural pigments of the hair.

Ammonia has two actions: it catalyzes the action of hydrogen peroxide, accelerates the chemical reaction, softens the keratin of the hair, opens the scales and thus the pigments can leave the hair more easily. Associated with hydrogen peroxide and ammonia are persalts, oxidants that are extremely powerful (among them we find ammonium, potassium and sodium persulfates).

Once the hair has been bleached, it is recolored step by step, starting with a pre-coloring that will display an intermediate shade, then finishing with the desired shade. In order to prevent the new pigments from leaving with the water of the next shampoo, the hairdresser ends the cycle with a specific shampoo with an acidic pH, in order to rebalance the pH of the hair and scalp and above all, to close the scales. Depending on the nature and condition of the hair, the professional may suggest to his client to wait a few days after bleaching before moving on to the recoloring step. The goal? Not to over-sensitize hair that has already been very damaged by bleaching. As you will have understood, there is not much natural in all this.

In conclusion, if you have dark hair, don't dream, a clean blonde is impossible. It will necessarily involve intense bleaching. The only "clean" precaution is to play with natural care and the time factor. If you have a natural blonde base, you can enhance it with plants in a clean approach .

A shade of hope? Romain is currently working with the Research and Development department of Pierre Fabre laboratories to come up with a formula capable of lightening hair by two to three tones, in a totally clean way.

In the meantime, love yourself as you are, treat your hair to 100% clean care (without silicones and other pollutants) and choose the path of wisdom... in beauty. Thanks to Romain, colorist and creator of Romain Colors in Paris (romaincolors.fr), Sarah Horlaville El Kamel, head of education for Aveda France (aveda.eu) and Céline Herbeaux, advisor in the Couleurs de Jeanne advisory team (lescouleursdejeanne.fr)