Clean Beauty

“Less, but better”, a new state of mind that questions our habits of consumption of beauty products. In the Clean Beauty philosophy , gestures are simplified, the number of products used decreases, quality replaces quantity. We are looking for effective and safe formulas that go to the essentials, without superfluous, to keep the skin visibly healthy, every day.

It all starts with sorting through your cosmetics and reviewing how you use them. Using fewer products means selecting the ones that are right for your current needs. Your skin will thank you if you lighten your beauty routine, and you'll save time and money as a bonus.

Less gestures

Skip care

Skip care , an emerging trend in Asia, involves reducing the number of beauty products you use (also called skinimalism ). You stick to the essentials, with one goal: not to over-tax your skin.

It also corresponds to a desire to consume cleaner, more responsibly: few cosmetics but quality, and the most natural possible. We identify undesirable ingredients by looking at the INCI list, thanks to the many apps . We focus on essential skin needs, such as cleansing and moisturizing, even if it means using a product for a specific skin problem (imperfections, etc.) or for a specific need (sun protection).

Skip care is the opposite of the famous layering , which overloads the skin by stacking 10 skincare and makeup products in a row, or more than a hundred ingredients on the skin.

Multifunctional care

A “multifunctional” treatment is a product that offers several benefits.

The famous BB Cream that moisturizes, mattifies, corrects imperfections and protects from the sun's rays is a good example of multifunctional care. An "all-in-one" cream, which combines care and makeup.

Other hybrid formulas, designed from pure and natural ingredients, can be applied to the hair, face or body. Many vegetable oils are used to nourish the face, body, nails, and hair (dry ends).

These treatments facilitate the beauty routine which is ultra-short, practical, fast and economical, but also clean and effective.

The cosmetic diet: zero products

Originating from Japan, this radical method consists of fasting your skin (called "skin fasting"). What is the point of not applying any product to your face for a night, a weekend, or several days in a row? The skin renews and regenerates itself naturally. It would then be healthier, with less visible pores, and a more radiant complexion?

This temporary detox may not be for everyone, but it does have some fans. The best way to form an opinion is to try it!

Fewer ingredients

A woman uses an average of 16 products per day (including toothpaste and shampoo), and men 8*. With a good twenty ingredients per product on average, we arrive at 400 daily components. Imagine the number of interactions they cause on the skin in one day.

A lighter list of ingredients

Cosmetic product formulations have progressed. Today it is possible (but not easy!) to find effective, sensory and clean products on the market, which contain less than 20 ingredients (INCI list). This is the benchmark to follow. These ingredients are judiciously chosen to purify the formula while providing real effectiveness. Quality replaces quantity; exit the so-called "filler" ingredients which have no real action and unnecessarily lengthen the INCI lists.

A better quality formula

A better quality formula is one without unwanted ingredients. Ingredients that don't pollute, and that aren't potentially bad for your skin.

It is also a formula where we favor relevant assets, of irreproachable quality and which have proven themselves.

Multifunctional assets

Clean brands often choose multi-purpose active ingredients, and they are right! Indeed, an ingredient can be anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, regenerating, repairing, antibacterial, etc.

The Less is More routine

It is limited to 2 products (cleanser and moisturizer) to which you can add a serum and/or specific treatment:

• Cleanser: This is the basic morning and evening step to rid the skin of pollution, clean the pores and maintain the balance of the skin's surface flora. Choose a gentle formula whose pH respects that of your skin.
• Moisturizing cream: the essential morning treatment for its barrier effect that protects the skin throughout the day and its moisturizing action that maintains an optimum water level in the different skin layers. For women looking for wrinkle/firmness benefits, anti-aging cream replaces moisturizer.
• The serum: to be used morning and/or evening depending on the skin concern (fatigue, dull complexion, spots, etc.)
• Specific care: isotonic mist, moisturizing mask, eye contour care, skin blemish care, regenerating night cream, sun cream, etc.

Packaging also follows the minimalist trend: fewer cases, instructions, sleeves, the thickness and weight of the packaging are lighter. This philosophy feels good. Let yourself be tempted!

* 20,000 people surveyed, study conducted by UBO, published in 2017.

In beauty as in other industries, "Made in France" is all the rage. However, do we necessarily have to convert to it in order to buy clean?

Consuming more responsibly, by favoring national producers, or even short circuits... this trend, which has been emerging for some time, has taken off with the health crisis. In beauty too, consumers are demanding healthier products and are attaching more and more importance to their origin. However, is it so easy to attach the label "Made in France" to a beauty product? And does that necessarily mean being clean ?

Much easier in food than in cosmetics

On the food side , you can easily choose a circuit with as few intermediaries as possible by buying your basket of vegetables from an AMAP (Association pour le Maintien d'une Agriculture Paysanne) or from the local market gardener-producer, support the restaurateur who uses local and seasonal products . In addition, foodstuffs (fruits & vegetables, meats, cheeses, etc.) are subject to mandatory origin marking as part of health regulations. There are AOP (Protected Designation of Origin) and IGP (Protected Geographical Indication), France Labels, etc.

Three good reasons to choose Beauty “Made in France”

1. Strict regulations. The European Union has adopted some of the most stringent regulations on cosmetics in the world. Some substances are regulated, others have been banned, good manufacturing practices (ISO 22716 quality standard) concerning the entire production chain from raw materials to waste and shipping methods are set. And any product sold in an official channel within the EU, whether a physical or virtual point of sale, must comply with it.
2. Support the local economy and ensure respectful working conditions for employees. In France, a minimum wage is guaranteed with deducted working time, mutual insurance now compulsory for each employee, occupational medicine, etc.
3. Reduce greenhouse gas emissions from transport (by preventing a product from traveling around the planet three times before arriving on shelves).

The “Made in France” marking is not a 100% guarantee

Marking the origin of a non-food product is optional in Europe. However, as soon as the words "Made in France" or "Fabriqué en France" appear on a cosmetic product, its manufacturers must comply with the non-preferential rules of origin adopted at the World Trade Organization (WTO) and the applicable European provisions. These make it possible to establish the nationality of a product, when production factors of various origins are involved in its composition, its raw materials or its manufacturing stages. These rules and provisions require, among other things, that the last assembly stage, or its final substantial transformation, has been carried out on French territory.

In summary, the “Made in France” label does not guarantee that the ingredients come from France, but that at least one of the key stages of its design was carried out in France.
The Origine France Garantie label, for example, requires 83% manufacturing to take place in France.

The Raw Materials Puzzle

African Shea, Moroccan Argan, Mexican Aloe Vera, Comorian Ylang, Turkish Rose or Calabrian Bergamot… to name just a few ingredients of plant origin. It’s not easy to formulate a cosmetic – and even more so a perfume – with only ingredients sourced on French soil. The same goes for packaging (pumps, tubes, etc.), which can be manufactured abroad, and not necessarily in Southeast Asia.

Some of the raw materials are therefore imported into France, but once on the territory, companies are now vigilant about the fact that the processing stages up to the finished product take place in a limited space.

Local cosmetics, in vogue

In recent years, we have seen the emergence of "local brands" that not only highlight a raw material from their region, but also ensure global manufacturing within a radius of around a hundred kilometers around their base. Most choose to focus on a flagship ingredient that they grow themselves or that they collect from small regional producers, ensuring them an income. A "short circuit" or "locavore" of cosmetics adopted by Graine de Pastel in the Toulouse region, Océopin around Cap-Ferret, Pulpe de Vie in the PACA region, La Chênaie or Vinésime in Burgundy...

Major groups are now getting involved: for the cornflower used by Klorane in one of its flagship lines, 48 ​​km separate the place where the plant is grown from the two factories manufacturing the products, around Castres and Toulouse. Yves Rocher has a "garden" in La Gacilly, its Breton stronghold where its factories are located, where most of its plants are grown, and has just relocated the production of its floral waters there, previously manufactured in the South of France! And L'Oréal has two "local" brands: Sanoflore, rooted in the Vercors, and La Provençale, made from AOP olive oil.

This Made in France can be exported outside of France since certain national brands sell throughout France and sometimes in many other countries.

And what about Clean in all this?

Buying Clean does not necessarily mean buying “Made in France” since many foreign Clean beauty brands exist.

What you need to keep in mind is that by buying French, you guarantee traceability, ethical pay and, to a large extent, a reduction in the carbon footprint through transport. In terms of formulation, some French cosmetic brands are "cleaning" their products by removing controversial substances , and are rethinking their packaging to make it as eco-responsible as possible.

In conclusion, when you buy a product "made in France", it is not necessarily clean, far from it. But it is already good to think locally in all your consumption acts, whether it is beauty, food or ready-to-wear.

The ideal, you will have understood, is to favor clean AND made in France brands.

When we think of "clean" beauty , the reassurance offered by a label guaranteeing clean cosmetics is obvious. However, in the absence of an official definition, no clean beauty label exists! It is then quite smart to turn to associations that offer the guarantees of beauty free of pollutants, ethical and much more, as proposed by organic labels and that of Slow Cosmétique® . Let's look in more detail at this mode of consumption of Clean Beauty.

What is the Slow Cosmétique® association?

Slow Cosmétique® is an ecological and ethical approach, based on a common desire to promote a natural, healthy and reasonable way of consuming cosmetics. A way of consuming beauty differently. It is an activist and international association, founded in 2012 by Julien Kaibeck. 250 brands currently carry the Slow Cosmétique label, including 216 in France.

The uniqueness of the Slow Cosmetics Mention

It is the only cosmetic label that focuses on both the formulas and the business model of a brand (including claims, manufacturing and capital structure). This label examines brands as a whole, based on more than 60 criteria induced by the Slow Cosmétique® Charter. In addition to their clean formulas, these brands practice “intelligent” and “reasonable” cosmetics.

How does the Slow Cosmétique® label guarantee clean beauty?

The Slow Cosmétique® label charter is designed around four pillars ( ecological , intelligent, healthy and reasonable cosmetics), two of which are very close to organic labels. As a priority: no toxic or polluting ingredients are tolerated. If there is any doubt about toxicity to humans or the environment, Slow Cosmétique® applies the precautionary principle by avoiding these ingredients.

From a health and ecological point of view, the guarantees between organic labels and the Slow Cosmétique label are generally the same (except for SCI surfactants – sodium cocoyl isethionate – not accepted in organic and tolerated by the Slow Cosmétique® Charter exceptionally for the formulation of solid cosmetics), because they contribute to raising public awareness of the zero waste approach in cosmetics. If they were found to be pollutants once rinsed, they would be banned.

Photo: Slow Cosmetics

Ecological cosmetics

This first pillar of the Slow Cosmétique® Charter indicates that the selected brands must formulate in an environmentally friendly manner . No more inert, inactive or unnecessarily processed ingredients: they must be natural and organic, with the least possible transformation in the formulas. Of course, ingredients from synthetic chemistry, petrochemicals, animal exploitation, as well as any ingredient that potentially pollutes the environment are excluded (while organic labels authorize 5% of ingredients from petrochemicals).

Clean too, because short circuits

Reinforced by the Covid effect, it is proven that consumers want more local, human, short circuits, ethics, in a word, meaning! This is good for Slow Cosmétique® which has already been advocating all this for nine years. To be labeled, cosmetic brands must strive to minimize their ecological impact in all spheres of their design and use. Short cycles, local exchanges and zero waste must be favored. These are also categories that decryption applications do not read (yet) because they do not consider the product and the brand in their entirety: Who manufactures? (Which subcontractor?) How? What is the origin of the raw materials? What is the quality-price ratio? etc.

Clean and reasonable cosmetics

This notion is the great forgotten of clean labels and guarantees. And for good reason, it calls into question the existing and dominant marketing model too much. Only the Slow Cosmétique® Charter mentions it: cosmetics must not make false promises! "Cosmetics must not create new needs for the skin. Limiting the number of products and actions necessary to maintain good skin health is essential to avoid marketing pitfalls". Slow Cosmétique® prohibits greenwashing, manipulation, and any form of retouching or concealment aimed at misleading consumers... "A company that highlights plant extracts in its advertising but which formulates conventionally is not slow". Hence the fact that we find many artisanal brands in this label, which do authentic work with heart. They promote ancestral and traditional know-how while respecting ethics, which is completely sought after by today's consumers. And what is less seen: in its development, Slow Cosmétique® ensures the improvement of the standard of living of all the actors in the production chain. As in fair trade: it is sold and bought at a fair price, which reflects the real quality of its formulation or its service.

In summary, Slow Cosmétique® is a clean cosmetic that also invites you to consume less but better, while encouraging you to come into direct contact with nature, without seeking to recreate it artificially. It provides valuable guarantees on the human, artisanal and reasonable approach of the brand (fair quality-price ratio, family control, short circuit, action towards zero waste , etc.).

To go further:

• Slow-cosmetique.org
• Natural well-being by Julien Kaibeck sold by Slow-Cosmetique.com

Clean, slow, vegan, blue, green, zero waste , natural or even organic... The "new generation" clean beauty seems very promising, but we still need to understand what is hidden behind each of the versions of this Clean Beauty that wants us well.

Between products that smell divine but are full of plastic, and those that do less harm to the planet but not necessarily good for the skin, it's not easy to find your way around. Deciphering all the names to make the right choices for yourself.

Clean beauty

The term clean beauty , or "clean beauty" in French, brings together all the aspects that come into play in the design of the product. It must be virtuous, that is to say ethical and respectful of nature on the manufacturing side, but also of the consumer on the formula side. Each aspect of its life cycle is important: the sourcing of ingredients, the manufacturing of the formula, the eco-design of the packaging and its degradability, the respect of the men and women employed in the manufacturing of the product, as well as the harmlessness of the formula on nature and for the skin, therefore devoid of non-biodegradable or potentially harmful ingredients. No need for a label (there is none at the moment), the product "just" has to be clean and virtuous. Which turns out to be quite complex. It is not easy to find "perfectly clean" products, but faced with growing consumer demand, many brands are working to achieve this perfection.

Natural beauty

Here are two words to be wary of. Indeed, we talk about natural beauty when it comes to organic products (since they are truly natural) but also to formulas without any precise qualification. Between "natural ingredients" or "ingredients of natural origin" or even "natural formula" ... How to understand? A natural ingredient is an ingredient that comes from nature (and not from chemistry): water, minerals, plants. But the latter can be treated to extract an active ingredient. They are then transformed, physically or chemically, and are then nicknamed "of natural origin". The transformation process is not necessarily harmful. For example, maceration, extraction, grinding or fermentation preserve the benefits of the natural ingredient. A formula can therefore both contain natural ingredients, of natural origin and claim it, up to 95% as is often the case. But the same formula can also contain controversial ingredients. Just like the formula of a product can be chemical, but with some organic ingredients that will be highlighted. Looking at the composition of the product is essential in this case.

Organic beauty

Easier to define, organic cosmetics are standardized by charters and labels. To benefit from an organic label, the composition of the product must meet specifications that indicate the proportion of organic, natural or naturally-derived ingredients (which differ depending on the label) and which ensure compliance with ethical and eco-responsible values. The products are controlled by accredited organizations to verify their compliance. A long list of so-called "controversial" ingredients are banned from the formulas, which guarantees uniformity within the same label, even if the products are from different brands. For example, PEGs (PolyEthylene Glycol), petroleum derivatives that are poorly biodegradable, obtained by a polluting process and irritating to the skin, are banned. This avoids damage to the planet and to humans. However, organic products can pose problems, particularly when they contain essential oils (risk of photosensitization or allergies). Furthermore, the preservatives allowed in organic beauty products may be less effective and thus limit the shelf life of the formulas. In addition to the formula, the packaging of organic products is not always clean. Finally, organic products produced on a very large scale for supermarkets may have ecological flaws, given the quantities of active ingredients required for manufacturing.

Zero Waste Beauty

Here, what we evaluate is the packaging. This is generally eco-designed upstream, and biodegradable downstream so that the consumer does not create any waste. Cardboard and paper packaging, vegetable inks, aluminum and glass pots, reusable or refillable boxes... The first material to be ousted from the equation is the nasty plastic! Fortunately, because its manufacture is extremely polluting and, in addition, it is not infinitely recyclable. Another advantage of zero waste beauty : some products are designed to be durable and not disposable, so as not to become waste like cotton buds or makeup remover pads. All benefit for the planet, this commitment generally goes hand in hand with clean formulas and ecological beauty gestures such as the use of products in their solid version (toothpaste tablets, soap, shampoo), or multi-use products. Another version of this trend aims to offer refillable packaging (instead of disposable). In some cases, they are made of plastic. Their first production is then deplored, even if a lot of bottles are subsequently saved.

Slow beauty and slow cosmetics

Slow beauty , a special name, is a social trend that consists of ritualizing our skincare routines, lightening them and accepting advancing age with kindness. It is both a trend and the name of the slow cosmetics association that gave birth to it, but also the mention it gives to certain brands to recognize their efforts in their social and environmental commitment. These are generally brands that work to offer simple, ecological products that respect people and nature, in a non-standardized way. Finally, slow cosmetics is a way of living your beauty less artificially, at all levels, by choosing products that do us good, without harming the planet.

Vegan beauty

Today, many ingredients used in conventional cosmetics are still of animal origin. A so-called "vegan" cosmetic is a beauty product that follows the principle of veganism: no ingredients of animal origin are used in its manufacture, and it is not tested on animals. The most commonly incriminated components are glycerin from animal fat, honey from bees, milk, squalane extracted from shark liver, lanolin from sheep's wool (authorized in organic by the way) or collagen from slaughterhouse pig carcasses. The origin, which of course does not appear in the INCI list of ingredients, is difficult to identify. These ingredients mostly have plant-based alternatives, but which are often more expensive. So, when nothing is specified, we can unfortunately think of the animal option. Beware of some misleading names: "Castor oïl" for example has nothing to do with beavers, but indicates castor vegetable oil in French! Note: carmine, a red pigment from crushed cochineals, used in most lipsticks, is still difficult to replace. Brands that launch into vegan beauty can use a dozen labels like that of PETA or the Vegan Society. On the other hand, the formula can be as chemical as desired or produce polluting ways, because the labels do not take these criteria into account.

Cruelty free

This designation only refers to the absence of animal testing. However, since 2013, a law has prohibited the sale of cosmetics tested on animals in Europe, with the exception of imported products. A law that was extended to all European markets in 2016. Thus, writing "not tested on animals" on a cosmetic is misleading since it is not a commitment on the part of the brand, but simply compliance with the law.

On the other hand, some ingredients that are not (or not only) cosmetic may have been tested on animals and end up in a formula. Today, no label can 100% guarantee that no ingredient has been tested on animals. Furthermore, the formula may contain ingredients of animal origin without having been tested on animals itself... The cruelty free label can be misleading.

Furthermore, conversely, a brand that wanted to market its cosmetics in China was obliged to test its formulas on animals! An international brand could therefore be "cruelty free" in Europe, but not in China. Now, in 2021, China is waiving this obligation in favor of a certificate from the National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and an assessment concerning manufacturing.

Green beauty or green cosmetics

These are imprecise names that are used to characterize a global trend rather than a specific category of products. They are used to determine the different families of natural or ecological products. Green beauty, which mainly refers to the brand's image, allows marketing departments to position the latter on the chessboard of the global cosmetics market. Behind "green beauty" we hear naturalness of course, but also transparency, values ​​and a commitment from the brand, but there is no label. And so it can mean anything, including greenwashing. At what point would a brand be green? Because it has eco-refills, even if they are made of plastic? Because a few ingredients are organic in the middle of a petrochemical formula? We could say that a brand is green as soon as it takes ecological action, which is very commendable, but does not reflect its commitments in terms of the formula or pollution.

Blue beauty

The latest trend, blue beauty could be the next big wave to hit the cosmetics industry. It is the evolution of clean beauty towards an active position of ecology through cosmetics. Blue beauty will not only be clean, safe, non-toxic and eco-friendly from A to Z with a low carbon footprint, it will also have to participate in preserving nature, including the oceans, with a view to giving back to water what water brings us that is precious. To become blue, cosmetics are getting closer to everything aquatic, from the ingredients to the actions and decisions that contribute to safeguarding the health of the planet, in particular the seabed with the reduction of waste (reduced and reusable and/or biodegradable packaging) and formulas that are safe for marine species. Combating marine pollution in formulas and packs involves the hunt for plastic (picking up waste on beaches, for example), developing formulas based on farmed microalgae, designing biodegradable plant-based packaging, and a project for a circular local economy that promotes know-how in complete transparency... With such a program, blue beauty has a bright future ahead of it.

When we see the profusion of names and trends that claim to be part of the sustainable, responsible and ethical movement, the alliance between beauty and ecology is obvious and unavoidable. We hope that this desire for transparency, honesty, safety and virtuous practices on the part of the cosmetics industry inspires other industries!

Between the "all-chemical" of the 1980s/90s and the current demand for naturalness, barely 30 years have passed. How did we get here? Discover the history of the rise of Green Beauty - which became Clean Beauty - born from deep-seated societal movements and amplifying crises. The 20th century saw the industrialization of cosmetics. Sciences (physics, chemistry, medicine, molecular biology, etc.) have made it possible to better investigate the skin, to create ever more effective active molecules and to prove their effects on the epidermis. Even if it sometimes surprises consumers or creates doubts, causing this long pendulum movement that brings us today to Clean Beauty.

It should be recalled as a preamble that since the 70s and 80s, Europe and France have adopted some of the most drastic regulations in the world, after the tragic Talc Morhange affair. If some remember this episode, a little reminder for others: in 1972, a handling error led to an overdose of a powerful bactericide in a baby talc (Talc Morhange) resulting in the death of 36 infants and the poisoning of 168 others.

This event gave rise to the French Law of 1975 and the European Directive of 1978, making Europe the spearhead of regulation and regulation in cosmetics. At the time, however, chemistry was queen and a symbol of progress, while naturalness was relegated to the rank of "hippie".

It would take twenty years for it to shed its "Larzac and bell-bottoms" image and for the "green beauty" of the 2000s to begin its revolution. Then to let "clean" beauty take over from the 2010s, a trend amplified by the current health crisis.

90s: Science, Technology and Performance

We must remember the atmosphere and fashion of the 90s to better understand how cosmetics reflect it: it is the era of exuberant Italian designers - Gianni Versace, Dolce & Gabbana -, the golden years of Jean-Paul Gaultier, the porno-chic of Tom Ford at Gucci. But also that of Japanese brands and their purity: Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garçons.

Science and technology culminate

• With technological assets

In cosmetics, Japanese high-tech brands based on medical research are making a remarkable breakthrough: Shiseido (which provides its hyaluronic acid), Shu Uemura and its art of make-up removal, Kanebo, etc.

Their art of sophistication and their routine proposals, where products multiply, influence French cosmetics. Just like the beginnings of aesthetic medicine. At this time, liposomes appear (at Dior), ceramides, fruit acids (AHA), active ingredients with barbaric names (who remembers Boswelox?), and we start talking about antioxidants. Retinol triumphs at Roc which promises "10 years younger in 10 minutes!". La Prairie introduces caviar as an active ingredient in treatments at prices that defy gravity.

• And the beginning of clinical evidence

Animal testing has been banned in Europe since 1979, but it is the rise of laboratory tests – in vitro, in vivo –, clinical studies using instruments to measure hydration, wrinkle depth, and reconstituted skin cultures to assess the effectiveness of active ingredients.

Naturalness points out, without being framed

In France, some brands claim that plants are as effective as chemistry and can provide cutting-edge active ingredients. This is the case for brands like Clarins, Yves Rocher, Klorane, L'Occitane, Le Petit Marseillais. They are also enjoying growing success in countries that are culturally focused on natural products, such as Germany or Scandinavia. Other brands, English or American, have also based their image on nature: The Body Shop, Origins, etc.

But plants are found in compositions that are still far from being 100% natural. And for some, more purist, this trend is akin to greenwashing.

The turning point of the 2000s in Europe and the impact of organic farming

The natural world will make a huge and unexpected breakthrough in the 2000s, with two major events.

the creation of the Cosmebio Charter in 2002

It is in reaction to what they denounce as "greenwashing" that ten laboratories, pioneers of organic in France since the 70s (including Sanoflore, Phyt's, Melvita), create the event with their organic charter, the first specifications and the associated organic label. Of course, there has been an association of producers of natural cosmetics in Germany since the 50s (BDIH), but nothing as precise. Cosmebio defines mandatory percentages of naturalness and organic in finished products and bans certain substances: preservatives, dyes and chemical perfumes, etc. These pioneers create surprise and raise awareness among consumers and distributors.

From there, organic, if it remains a niche, comes out of its ghetto . Brands multiply, and find new distribution channels: specialized ones like Mademoiselle Bio or Naturalia, or dedicated corners in mass distribution. So much so that some brands will be bought by large groups: Sanoflore by L'Oréal in 2006, Melvita by L'Occitane in 2008. And this is only the beginning.

The Envoyé Spécial program on parabens in 2005

On March 3, 2005, the magazine Envoyé spécial broadcast a report on France 2 that had the effect of a bomb. It took up without qualification the study by Philipa Darbre, from the University of Reading, published in January 2004 in the Journal of Applied Toxicology, whose conclusions linked parabens, deodorants, and breast cancer (a study subsequently disavowed and controversial). In the report, certain French products were targeted, and opposed to German organic products, and even to brands that were no more natural at the time, but without parabens. With the rise of the first social networks, there was unleashing on blogs and forums. Women threw out their entire bathroom cupboards, others brought the products back to the store and poured them on the counters with a crash. Parabens were condemned .

A month later, Greenpeace published its first Cosmetox report, in which it incriminated a number of chemical substances, particularly targeting the cosmetics industry, which was already deemed "non-essential". Other controversies followed on silicones, phthalates, phenoxyethanol, etc. Let us recall that to date all these ingredients are authorized and considered non-dangerous to human health by European regulations. Nevertheless, the worm is in the fruit.

The beginnings of Green and Clean Beauty

These controversies, fueled by organic players and consumer associations and their press organs, are more or less well understood and relayed by the media. This phenomenon will shake up conventional cosmetics. Some agile and opportunistic brands rush into the breach and reformulate in a hurry (sometimes with a few failures at the start), or surf on the "without, without, without" trend. Large groups take longer to react, because it is not easy to abandon preservatives used for more than 30 years in complete safety. Their replacement, ensured for a time by the famous MIT (Methylisothiazolinone), at the origin of allergic reactions and irritation, has proven this.

The desire to formulate differently is emerging, under pressure from consumers, but things are moving slowly. There is a lack of substitute raw materials, because it takes years to create new ingredients. Organic cosmetics still lack sensoriality. Green is emerging and seems to be winning the game for a while, with the success of brands that put plants in the spotlight (L'Occitane, Nuxe).

As for Clean, it is still quite austere and linked to minimalist formulas. We can thus cite sterile cosmetics, which allow to do completely without preservatives, but is only intended for sensitive skin. Furthermore, if some groups have since their origin integrated fair and solidarity trade into their values, the majority focuses on the "cleaning" of the compositions.

2010: the US revolt

Once again, it took American women turning away from their conventional brands and habits for the movement to become almost global.

Almost non-existent regulation

There is virtually no overall regulatory framework in the United States, a federal country hostile to regulation. The FDA (Food & Drug Administration) only bans 9 cosmetic substances, compared to 1,383 in France and Europe. Six Cosmetic Act projects have been presented without any being adopted. It is in opposition to this lack of regulation and to counter the giants of the sector that the Organics trend first emerged, then the "Clean" movement which began in the 2000s and really took off from 2010.

The wave of Healthy Living

At the same time, a global movement emerged in the 2010s. After having been exemplary working girls, American women became the queens of detox and the "healthy way of life": we eat healthy, we live healthy, we take care of ourselves healthy, we want healthy skincare. The popes of this ultra-healthy lifestyle created brands of yoga clothing, detox juices, food supplements and "cosmetics that they can't find on the shelves". Thus, after the success in the early 2000s of Doctor Brands, hyper-effective brands founded by doctors (Dr Brandt, Dr Murad, Dr Perricone), it was the rise of independent, creative and digitally native Indie brands, but also committed, transparent, organic or vegan. And these troublemakers arrived in Europe by boomerang effect, which explains the craze for brands like Tata Harper, Glossier, or Drunk Elephant.

Towards Clean Beauty with the impact of CSR

Make no mistake, brands did not become virtuous just out of deep conviction. It took pressure on multiple levels for Clean to become a norm.

The CSR obligation

In France in particular, the obligation to report CSR (corporate social responsibility) was introduced by Article 116 of the law on new economic regulations (NRE) of 2001. Originally only concerning companies listed on the stock exchange, it was largely extended by the Grenelle 2 law of 2011. The companies concerned must include in their annual report information on the orientations and actions carried out concerning the social, societal and environmental issues of their activities. Obviously, to be able to include such an appendix to its annual financial report, real initiatives must have been initiated. In fact, CSR influences the "employer brand" and the image of the company.

Consumers and candidates as CSR actors

Awareness of environmental and societal issues has been real for 10 years. No candidate from a Grande École (business, engineering, etc.) who does not ask questions about a company's commitments and values ​​during a job interview and does not make it one of their arbitration criteria. To attract young, valuable graduates, companies – cosmetics among others – must remain attractive and therefore become exemplary.

As for consumers, increasingly informed, expert and suspicious, they have become very careful not only about the composition of a product, but also about new criteria: ethics, fairness, inclusiveness, ecology, animal cruelty and therefore overall responsibility throughout the product life cycle. They are ready to make new trade-offs, to abandon or even boycott major brands that have not committed to these new virtuous paths. And the health crisis linked to Covid-19 is accelerating and amplifying these requirements. Major groups such as L'Oréal, Yves Rocher, Unilever and Shiseido have now understood this. The Clean Revolution is underway.

The current demand for Clean beauty should not be seen as a rejection of science, or even chemistry, but as the service of greater transparency and better expertise in naturalness. Unlike brands stamped Organic, Clean brands can combine natural and biotechnology. The trend also extends to holistic, integrative beauty, combining In and Out (topicals and food supplements).

What are the paths for the future of Clean Beauty? After exploring the botanical world, it is likely that marine biotechnology will bring new innovative active ingredients. Towards Blue Beauty?

Regularly, magazines, radio and television shows and some blogs sow discredit on endocrine disruptors, creating a phenomenon of fear. What is the reality?

"Traces of dozens of endocrine disruptors in the hair of children aged 10 to 15", "The risks you take when you wear makeup", "When my cream gives me cancer" ... So many headlines that send shivers down your spine and categorically point the finger at cosmetics. However, the problem of endocrine disruptors is more subtle and clearly more complex.

What is an endocrine disruptor?

According to the WHO definition taken up by the European Commission: “An endocrine disruptor is an exogenous substance or mixture altering the functions of the endocrine system and inducing adverse effects on the health of an intact organism, its descendants or (sub)populations.”

These are molecules foreign to the body, of synthetic origin (products from the chemical industry) or natural (hormones and phytoestrogens).

What are their effects?

Omnipresent in everyday life, they act by imitating and modifying the metabolism of natural hormones. Organisms can thus be exposed by multiple routes (ingestion, inhalation, skin contact) to tiny doses of several compounds, the various effects of which could combine. Endocrine disruptors (EDs) are suspected of inducing pathologies such as obesity, diabetes or autism, fertility disorders (possibly over several generations) such as deterioration of sperm quality in boys or conversely early puberty in girls, or even hormone-dependent cancers (breast, uterus, prostate, testicles). Endocrine disruptors are found in pesticides, but also in household products , furniture , clothing and cosmetics .

The dose effect and the cocktail effect

Traditionally, the harmful effects of chemicals are described in toxicology studies as proportional to the dose tested.

No usual dose effect

Normally, a low dose produces no effect, a medium dose causes weak toxic effects, and a high dose induces more pronounced or dangerous effects. In the case of EDCs, toxicologists have noted that some of these chemicals can have more significant (or even opposite) effects at low doses than those observed at high doses.

But a cocktail effect

According to the WHO, humans are exposed daily to a large number of different endocrine disruptors, from different products: food packaging, plastic bottles, cleaning products, paints, baby wipes, cosmetic products. While each of them can have harmful effects on the body, it is above all the cocktail effect linked to their interactions that worries scientists. And it is the mixture of these molecules in the body that has effects that are still unknown.

Many suspects, but none proven guilty

In cosmetics, the list of supposed endocrine disruptors varies. No database is really reliable.

The famous suspects

If we want to be exhaustive, here is the list of PE:

• Chemical sunscreens : avobenzone, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, benzophenone-1 and -3, oxybenzone, octocrylene, octinoxate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (4-MBC)
• Antioxidants: BHA AND BHT
• Volatile silicones: cyclopentasiloxane, others having already been banned
• Preservatives: butylparaben, propylparaben, methylparaben and ethylparaben (5 parabens were banned by regulation no. 1004/2014.)
• But also: salicylic acid, diethyl phthalate, EDTA, PEG, Resorcinol in hair dyes, aluminum salts in deodorants, antibacterial triclosan (very little present in recent years)

Often contradictory studies

The problem is that scientists themselves cannot agree on these substances. For each, there are as many studies that exonerate them as there are others that accuse them. And in the end, no study proves or clearly states the dangers of these molecules.

Cosmetic Regulations in Constant Evolution

The REACH regulation and PE

In France, cosmetics are governed by European Regulation (Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 of the European Council and of the Parliament of 30 November 2009). However, this does not provide for specific provisions on PE. It is the REACH regulation (Registration, Evaluation and Authorisation of Chemicals in English) which manages environmental concerns related to chemical substances contained in cosmetics.

Endocrine disruptors are regulated in the REACH regulation by article 57: substances with endocrine disrupting properties can be identified as SVHC (substances of very high concern) in the same way that other categories of dangerous chemical substances are classified as CMR (carcinogenic, mutagenic, toxic to reproduction) or PBT (persistent, bioaccumulative and toxic). A substance classified as SVHC can no longer be produced or used in the EU. Endocrine disruptors can also be banned in certain uses, these are “restrictions.”

A Committee of European experts

Each use of substances is preceded by a complete risk assessment. This assessment is carried out by an independent committee: the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). It is composed of 17 independent members, from national health and safety authorities, of different nationalities (mainly experts in chemistry and toxicology), with no links to industry. It can take action alone if it suspects a substance or do so if a Member State requests it to do so.
The CSSC thus issues opinions on the safety and health risks due to the use of non-food consumer products, as is the case for cosmetic products.

Studies in progress

The SCCS is regularly contacted by the European Commission for new assessments of potentially harmful substances and those particularly suspected of endocrine disruption.

Since 2019, a list of 28 potential endocrine disruptors has been established for cosmetics. The following are currently being evaluated as a priority: Kojic acid, Benzophenone 1 and 3, Benzyl Salicylate, BHT, Genistein, Homosalate, Octocrylene, Propylparaben, Resorcinol, Triclosan, 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor (4-MBC).
On February 15, 2021, 10 substances were added, including two parabens (butylparaben and methylparaben), five UV filters (including benzophenone 1, octocrylene and octinoxate), BHA and salicylic acid.
Opinions are expected in the coming months or year.

Ultimately, the problem with endocrine disruptors is mainly that of the precautionary principle. Nothing has been truly and scientifically proven yet. So if they are not absolutely necessary (the question arises in particular for sunscreens), should we use endocrine disruptors and accept the risks they represent? In the meantime, we can scan the composition of products with apps that signal their presence and turn to simpler and cleaner formulas.

If a major clean-up has largely begun in skincare, makeup is making its entry into clean via vegan and organic . As for the big classic brands, they are having more difficulty getting into clean makeup.

For a few years now, we have clearly seen a “ clean beauty ” trend taking hold for skincare. On the makeup side, the movement has more obstacles. And for good reason. The results, colors and sensoriality are much more difficult to achieve with clean formulas. As for the packaging, it is often part of the pleasure that the makeup object provides. In short, the story of clean makeup is only just beginning.

More natural formulas? Not easy

All brands have entered a phase of "cleaning" their formulas to varying degrees. The Indies (new shoots) that are launching are positioning themselves as at least vegan (which does not mean at all that the formulas are clean) and are making great efforts thanks to ingredients of natural origin (but a natural transformed by ... biochemistry). The organic players are reviewing their products to move towards more naturalness and sensoriality, while pushing the cursor on the side of the sourcing of ingredients. As for luxury brands, we will see later why they are still taking small steps.

Varnish: pioneer and bio-sourced

Oddly enough, the most chemical of makeup products was one of the first that some brands looked into, at the very moment when nail polish was booming on the European market. More than ten years ago, first appeared 4, 5 or even "10-free" nail polishes (in which 4 to 10 components considered suspect had been removed) and then so-called "bio-sourced" nail polishes.

First, we need to remember the components of a varnish. In order for it to meet all that is required of it – good adhesion to the nail, nice coverage, shine, long-lasting – the varnish contains film-forming agents, resins, plasticizers, solvents and pigments. However, many of the components used a few years ago were problematic: toluene, a pollutant and irritant; phthalates, including dibutyl phthalate (DBP), suspected of being an endocrine disruptor; formaldehyde, classified as carcinogenic at European level; rosin, a resin that can cause allergic reactions and asthmatic symptoms.

Specialized brands (OPI, Essie), soon followed by all the others, removed the most controversial ingredients , even those dangerous for health: formaldehyde, toluene and dibutyl phthalate.

Then, some brands, led by Kure Bazaar, went further by replacing petrochemicals with ingredients of natural origin: wood, cassava, corn, potato, cotton. It was then deduced – wrongly – that these varnishes were clean , or even organic. They are in fact “biosourced” or of natural origin. Because, yes, the ingredients are natural at the base, but they undergo transformation processes, so that in the end their INCI formula is almost identical to that of non-biosourced varnishes. As for organic varnishes, they are not yet the panacea. Water-based and solvent-free, they do not offer the same shine, nor a large choice of shades.

Replacing silicones and polymers, a delicate matter

The great revolution in modern makeup since the 1950s was the birth of organic chemistry, which allowed for major advances in the composition of lipsticks, mascaras and eye shadows. Raw materials of petrochemical origin have gradually transformed the hold, sensoriality, glide and grip of makeup products: microcrystalline waxes, silicones (dimethicone on the INCI list) and volatile silicones (cyclopentasiloxane and others), polymers, synthetic oils. They have allowed the development of long-lasting, transfer-free products, where the pigment clings and fuses with the skin without a material effect, without a drying effect, from the creamy reds of the 80s to the lacquers and lip inks of recent years. So much so that today, doing without all these components is a real challenge.

• In mascaras and lipsticks, we return to waxes, mainly vegetable (candelilla, carnauba, rice, and castor for mascaras) to avoid beeswax as much as possible, to which we add derivatives of vegetable oils, polymers based on corn, potato or tapioca starch for a good coating of the eyelashes and a creamy grip on the lips.
• In lipsticks, shea butter allows the grape (the stick) to hold and oils (argan, coconut, apricot) and oil fractions replace silicones. The problem: vegetable waxes cost four times more than petrochemical ingredients!
• As for the complexion, we will still find polymers but in very small quantities, alongside worked silicas, clay derivatives, powders and sometimes mother-of-pearl. But above all, formulators play on the forms of emulsion - water in oil, micro-dispersion of droplets - and the coating of pigments to obtain a uniform film that does not migrate.
• In organic, the color palette is still limited because polymers are out, even of natural origin. Waxes and oil fractions are allowed, but you have to play with starches and powders in foundations, sugar networks and fibers in mascaras, micas in eyeshadows.

Pigments, the big challenge

There are two types of pigments: minerals (based on iron oxide, titanium dioxide and manganese) and chemicals (about fifteen authorized) that are mixed to obtain a palette of shades. In recent decades, the know-how of other industries, such as printing, mirror making, automotive or even aeronautical painting, has been imported into makeup to obtain sophisticated effects. Because these industries are not only at the forefront of research on pigments, but also on the reflection of light. This is how all the interference pearls were born, derived from mica or silica, which allow iridescent, glittery, "butterfly wing" effects. This is why most "natural" brands keep synthetic pigments.

• In organic farming, only mineral pigments are allowed, which already reduces the color palette. In addition, these mineral pigments are not indefinitely renewable resources.
• Brands that have chosen vegan have had to ban the famous red color, obtained from a crushed insect, the cochineal.
• Today, some want to go even further. Thus, the brand Le Rouge Français, certified organic, vegan and clean beauty, has eliminated all chemical and mineral pigments. It has developed its own patented pigments, obtained by pressure, fermentation or biotechnological extraction based on dye plants (madder, hibiscus, lotus, indigo, roucou, sorghum, cosmos, turmeric, beetroot, etc.). The palette remains more limited and the shades are essentially "natural".

Clean makeup: fewer results, more care

Lipsticks don't last as long and need to be "warmed" before applying them or, on the contrary, look like balms. Mascaras offer a fairly natural result, far from the multiplying and dizzying effects of those from star brands. Foundations don't have the evanescence or the "blur" (corrector) effect of certain BB creams or foundations loaded with volatile oils and silicones. Transfer-free and waterproof are currently impossible to obtain. Only a new brand - Last - has just patented a long-lasting polymer of natural origin.

But the other side of the coin offers other advantages. In addition to the "clean" argument, the use of vegetable oils and butters has nourishing, fortifying, moisturizing, but also anti-oxidant effects. The castor oil in mascaras strengthens the eyelashes and promotes their growth. Finally, with clean makeup, you don't swallow petrochemical ingredients when applying your lipstick!

Eco-designed packs? on the right track

The formulas are not the only ones to have had a facelift. On the packaging side, we also see progress.

Rechargeable, the first step

It's hard to do without plastic in makeup. Of course, most foundations come in glass bottles , but it's harder for mascara (La Bouche Rouge has tried it, however) and almost impossible for lipstick. Which explains why the number of refillable lipsticks is increasing. It's true that, more than any other makeup product, lipstick is a symbolic and status object. We slip it into our bag, we carry it with us, we take it out to reapply several times a day (except during pandemic periods), we enjoy showing it off. And we think it's a waste to throw it away when we've finished it. So brands - especially luxury brands - are offering repacks of their iconic products (Rouge Dior, Rouge G Guerlain) or launching new refillable objects, like Hermès or La Bouche Rouge (with a customizable leather case). Same strategy at Lush, Kure Bazaar, Le Rouge Français, Veganie, Zao where certain eye shadow palettes, compact foundations or powders are also refillable.

Bioplastic mascara packs and brushes

The big new thing in the last year: bio-sourced mascara brushes, made from castor oil. Indeed, castor oil has several advantages. In addition to its nourishing and strengthening properties for eyelashes, it is inedible, and therefore does not compete with the human and animal food chain. Indeed, castor oil is GMO-free, requires little water for its cultivation, with an excellent yield. The plant, extremely resistant, grows in regions where there is little rainfall, such as Gujarat in India, which provides more than 80% of global production. It is a great alternative to nylon bristles or polymer brushes. Several brands, organic or not, have already converted to it. And Le Rouge Français has even made its lipstick cases in this bio-sourced, resistant and recyclable material.

Cardboard, primary and secondary packaging

Cardboard is gaining ground at the expense of plastic, especially among organic brands. Whether it's Couleur Caramel, Zao or Bo.ho, they have all long opted for cardboard boxes from FSC forests ( eco-managed) for all their makeup references. Other players are taking advantage of a new launch (like SoBio Etic) to convert to cardboard.

Cardboard is also becoming more popular for secondary packaging. It is gradually replacing plastic blisters and sleeves (sealed plastic envelopes).

Major difficulties persist

Managing to create perfectly clean makeup while providing the same benefits as classic makeup is a real headache today.

Sensoriality and performance, a change in requirements

The big names in makeup, whether luxury brands or well-known players in large and medium-sized stores, have more difficulty turning to Clean. While they loudly display their CSR commitments in terms of sourcing and recyclability (efforts on packaging), it is the formulas that pose the most problems. Of course, Guerlain has led its Terracotta to display 96% of ingredients of natural origin and has launched a foundation displaying a particularly high rate of naturalness. The same strategy at Dior with the Rouge Dior balm and at L'Oréal Paris which is launching its first mascara with 99% natural origin, but all these initiatives are a drop in the ocean in the number of makeup references. Why? When you have accustomed your consumers to ultra-sensory textures, imperceptible but ultra-resistant finishes, ultra-sophisticated and luxurious packs, the step is difficult to take.

A department with high logistics: a brake on Clean

All distributors know it: the makeup section is one of the most complicated to manage. There are a plethora of references, multiplied by the high number of shades, some of which have a much higher sales turnover than others. Testers are needed, and you need to constantly check that they remain clean. The sales furniture is imposing and what about hypermarkets where the products are presented in plastic blisters to see them transparently, while remaining inviolable? This enormous logistics also explains the difficulty in transforming packaging, while respecting the specifications of distributors, and why it is confidential brands, sold on the internet or with their own points of sale, that manage to advance the Clean makeup market.

Makeup is finally at the same point as skincare was a few years ago: at the very beginning of Clean . But, thanks to consumer demand and the creation of more efficient raw materials, there is no doubt that the Clean makeup landscape will truly change in the coming years. A case to follow closely.

Eco-design, eco-refills, glass, aluminum, zero waste and other reassuring proposals are flourishing for cosmetic packaging. But are these eco-responsible and "clean" packagings really so? Faced with pressure from consumers, manufacturers and brands are working together to develop the least harmful and most economical packaging, while remaining desirable. A real challenge!

What is eco-responsible and clean packaging?

It is virtuous packaging, that is to say that it does not pollute or pollutes little during its manufacture, and whose disappearance has no impact on the environment (eco-designed). The difficulty is to reconcile the use of the product, its cost and its often very specific manufacturing standards. And unfortunately, it is often the most polluting materials that are the safest and easiest to use. This is the case with plastic, very cheap and very practical. Weighing the pros and cons in choosing packaging is a delicate process, a real headache: is the ugly plastic ultimately more harmful than the holy glass? If the parameters to evaluate are numerous, what is certain is that the only packaging that has no impact is the one that we do not produce ( zero waste and bulk ).

Paper and cardboard, bravo champions

Considered the least dangerous for the planet, cardboard packaging degrades easily if, by chance, it ends up in nature.

Made from wood, the fibres of the paper pulp do not resist humidity, which is an advantage for nature, but a disadvantage for manufacturers: since cardboard can only contain dry materials, it is often rejected. In clean beauty , it is the reference packaging for all dry products such as soaps , solid shampoos or accessories. It is very recyclable, because its own recycling sector produces packaging made from recycled cardboard and paper. And if the inscriptions are made with vegetable and biodegradable inks, then paper and cardboard are the cleanest and most harmless materials there are. As long as they are not lined with an outer plastic film to make them shinier and stronger, or an inner film to make them waterproof (as for cups). Note: opposing biodegradable and recyclable is particularly inconsistent in the case of paper since it is both at the same time. One does not prevent the other!

Plastic packaging, it lasts forever

Unsurprisingly, plastics (very numerous) are the bad students. It is unfortunately very difficult to deprive oneself of its "qualities" in the world of packaging. Light, very cheap, plastic is infinitely modular thanks to chemical products. Polymers and treatments make it possible to obtain a tailor-made material: density, hardness, flexibility, color, texture. We can manufacture bottles, but also overpackaging in the form of transparent plastic film, bags, but also boxes, of mediocre or very luxurious quality, in short, plastic has all the advantages... except that of being clean!

Once created, its material derived from oil never disappears. At best, it is recycled and transformed into new packaging or objects. A process that has its limits, because plastic loses its properties over the course of recycling and quickly requires the addition of new "virgin" plastic.

The problem of plastic incineration

At worst, plastic waste is incinerated or buried, creating massive soil and air pollution, because the incineration or pyrolysis of plastic generates CO2 and contributes to global warming. They are found in the sea where they degrade into microplastics , impossible to filter. This plastic waste colonizes the oceans and is absorbed by marine organisms that sometimes end up on our plates! Reducing the use of plastic is a challenge, especially forfood and cosmetic products , which require impeccable hygiene. Manufacturers are now offering more and more eco-responsible alternatives, such as:

• PCR (Post Consumer Recycled) packaging, which is nothing other than recycled plastic, from household waste
• Lighter caps/capsules (by reducing their sizes).

Bioplastics, not so fantastic?

Plant-based plastics (or bioplastics) are said to have the qualities of petrochemical plastics, but not their drawbacks. Except that... made from sugar cane or corn, they are sometimes bio-sourced, but not always biodegradable. And if they are designed without oil, this poses other problems: this plant material must be supplied in quantity and therefore the soil must be used to grow these plants. However, using a consumable resource and arable land to make plastic at a time when millions of humans are dying of hunger raises questions. Not to mention that these plants, which often come from the other side of the world, have a heavy carbon footprint even before being transformed into plastic.

Bioplastics, neither organic nor biodegradable

Then, the "bio-PE" (PolyEthylene) or "bio PET" (PolyEthyleneTerephthalate) undergo chemical transformations that make them materials of the same type as petroleum-based plastics. A bioplastic bag, made from sugar cane, will take decades to decompose, just like a conventional plastic bag. And in the meantime, if the plant-based plastic bag ends up in the sea, it will still suffocate the turtles. This is the whole ambiguity of bioplastics: they are called "bio", which suggests that they are obtained without chemicals and are naturally biodegradable. In fact, most so-called "biodegradable" plastics are not in individual composts. They only degrade in industrial composters, which are very rare in France. As for the sorting channels for recycling these bioplastics, they do not exist. These bioplastics, which sometimes end up in the yellow bin with other plastics, will be collected and taken to a recycling plant which will not be able to take them into account.

To address this problem, the new “OK Home Compost” label indicates waste that degrades on its own in nature or in household compost. Finally, these plant-based plastics will still emit CO2 if they are incinerated at the end of their life.

The glass ceiling

Glass is considered the cleanest material that exists. It is true that it has many advantages: infinitely recyclable, washable, pretty, it allows for beautiful creations. However, glass production is done at very high temperatures in ovens that run day and night at more than 1500°, thus consuming a lot of energy. In addition, it can be heavy: its transport thus adds a share of pollution to the bill and its carbon footprint. The solution is therefore to adopt so-called "light" glass. Finally, it is fragile: breakable during transport or dangerous when used at home or in stores. Disadvantages that mean that glass is still rarely chosen (wrongly?) by manufacturers and consumers. But the lines are starting to move.

Glass, a strategic choice

Nobody wants to see a bottle of shower gel break in the bathtub. But for all other uses (make-up remover waters, oils, serums, creams, etc.), glass is a very interesting alternative to plastic. It can be refilled, and in this case, it is only manufactured and transported once.

Aluminum in question

Aluminum packaging, unlike glass, is relatively light. On the waste side, aluminum is not biodegradable and can persist for a long time in nature, but it is very easily and infinitely recyclable (provided, of course, that it is sorted and the caps and pumps associated with it are separated).

Another important point: when aluminum ends up on the seabed, it oxidizes and becomes dust (no impact on underwater life)... unlike plastic which degrades into microplastics, sooner or later ingested by fish which end up on our plates.

In cosmetics, the cleanest option (with an aesthetic result equivalent to that of virgin aluminum) is to choose:

• Either PCR (Post Consumer Recycled) aluminum
• Either PIR (Post Industrial Recycled) aluminum. The recycled material comes from aluminum production waste.

The fact that it is opaque, finally, is a great option for cosmetics.

There are, however, two drawbacks with aluminum:

• To produce it, it must be extracted from certain minerals (including bauxite) using polluting chemical processes, which emit millions of tons of greenhouse gases worldwide and consume large quantities of water and energy. Open-pit bauxite mines cause environmental damage (chemical waste, damage to flora and fauna).
• It gets damaged easily: you must therefore be prepared to sometimes buy products that are a little dented (transport).

Aluminum and polyfoil, not to be confused

It may seem like you are buying an aluminum pack when in fact it is made up of different layers, including plastic. Called polyfoil, this process makes it possible to obtain small tubes of hand cream that are flexible and non-breakable, for example. It is impossible to envisage recycling, because the different layers of polyfoil are not separable.

Aluminum: a danger for food

As for its safety, aluminum is accused of leaching too easily into food products, which can have a significant impact on health. However, it is extremely widespread: beverage cans, trays, tin cans or even aluminum foil in the kitchen.

Does eco-friendly packaging exist?

If by ecological we mean "having no impact on the environment", the answer is no, and forever. Apart from reusing a paper bag (provided the inks are biodegradable), all manufacturing consumes energy, and therefore resources, oil and water among others, and releases CO2 . We must therefore make a choice and choose our fight, taking into account the complete life cycle of the material: manufacturing, use and end of life. We must also have a long-term vision of packaging and not a "single use" vision.

Packaging and eco-design

Recyclable, reusable, today packaging cannot do without eco-design! Reducing the volume of plastic used with eco-refills, instead of bottles that we throw away, is a first step. But the ideal is above all to reduce packaging that has a very long lifespan, and to favor recycled and recyclable materials.

Recycling must be deployed

In addition to encouraging consumers, it is essential to have the support of public authorities and politicians to increase sorting capacity and strengthen the sectors. When will there be a reward for those who sort and thus enable communities to make savings? And what about the companies , still too rare, that are developing an internal system so that employees, who fill their office bins, also sort them? Because between the glass bottles in restaurants and the paper in offices, how much recyclable waste slips through the cracks.

The ideal eco-responsible packaging would therefore be perfectly biodegradable in nature, or in garden compost or even recovered in the form of energy thanks to methanization, a technique that produces fuel from organic, household or agricultural waste. Except that it does not exist. It's up to you to choose your fight!

New eco-friendly gestures to adopt, new beauty habits... Take advantage of the summer to (re)discover clean beauty !

Even if New Year's resolutions are already a thing of the past, summer is the time to (re) sort out your bathroom , in order to start off on the right foot.

• Before purchasing products, make sure to finish your current pots.
• Don't hesitate to get rid of products that have been used for too long.
• Do not keep your opened body products for more than one year.
• Also remember to donate your unopened tubes, if you don't think you'll use them.
• When you're in "repurchase" mode because your shelves are almost empty, treat yourself to a more responsible cosmetic for the planet. Brands are making more and more efforts to offer clean products, or even refillable or solid versions.

Even if it's not yet perfect, we can only welcome this kind of initiative like that of the colorful and innovative brand 900 Care (in Monoprix) which teaches us to love refilling our products!

Operation Clear Skin

Before the arrival of summer and sunny days, it is a good idea to prepare your skin by removing the dead cells accumulated during the winter.

Dry brushing

Don't hesitate to rediscover the use of brushes for a little dry massage . This is a gesture that is done without products and is therefore very eco-friendly. The idea? Once or twice a week, just before getting in the shower, brush your entire body, starting with your feet and working your way up to your stomach. Keep your hand light so as not to "scratch" the skin. You avoid the breasts (more fragile) and visible veins if you have any (such as varicose veins, etc.). The advantage? a quick exfoliation, combined with a toning massage that boosts microcirculation in the legs and removes small dead surface skin. A pure moment of relaxation and detox. After the shower, dry your skin and apply a treatment. The refined skin texture makes it easier to apply.

DIY scrub

Exfoliation, like dry brushing, helps rid the skin of dead cells and enhance the effect of subsequent treatments (moisturizing or slimming). If you don't want a conventional scrub, you can turn to natural homemade recipes. To do this, just take a look in your kitchen cupboards. The star ingredients? Coarse salt for the more robust parts like the legs, and sugar (or ground coffee) for the finer areas (like the arms). You can simply mix them with vegetable oil (olive, coconut, argan). Always start with the feet and work your way up the body to stimulate venous return. Focus on the roughest areas and then rinse thoroughly.

Heading for something solid

This year, the trend is towards responsible and solid cosmetics. Shampoo, deodorant, makeup remover, today we find all our "classic" products in solid version. The idea is to limit unnecessary packaging , use the most natural products possible and aim for zero waste . So we are easily tempted by the return of real soap to wash our body.

The oil option is natural

Dry or oily touch, oil brings us another sensoriality to our beauty ritual. In addition to moisturizing like a milk, these natural formulas, rich in vitamins, soften and nourish the skin gently. The right gesture: apply your oil after the shower on barely damp skin to further enhance the beautiful skin results.

The two-in-one, the “eco” gesture

If you are not a fan of the oil texture, you can also let yourself be tempted by body and face creams, in order to limit the purchase of products.

And on the solar side, we recharge!

This year, we will be tempted by the zero waste sun milk, designed without plastic packaging by Cozie. The sun milk is sold in a returnable, refillable and… reusable bottle!

• Sun milk, SPF 50, Cozie Bio , €23.50.

Clean Beauty gives pride of place to solid products, such as shampoo or toothpaste in pebble form, because they are more ecological. But solid soap does not necessarily mean clean soap (good for the skin as well as for the planet ). Explanations.

Clean soap, clean manufacturing

With a little marketing, any soap can appear natural and eco-responsible. Beyond the packaging and ingredients, you have to look at the manufacturing and favor ancestral methods such as cold saponification , a real " slow production ", difficult to achieve on a large scale. A process very different from industrial soaps made from soap beads, often coming from Asia. After melting, these beads are kneaded in a machine in which dyes, preservatives and perfumes are added.

Another advantage of cold saponification is that the gentle moisturizing and nourishing glycerin produced during manufacturing is preserved in the formula, unlike hot saponification (used for Marseille soaps for example) which removes it to sell it separately. Bonus for the planet: we heat little and use little water. In addition, the soap resulting from this cold saponification is very stable, completely biodegradable, so that it does not require polluting, poorly biodegradable or ecotoxic synthetic preservatives. This cold saponification, which requires at least 4 weeks of drying, guarantees a real desire to produce a clean soap.

Clean soap, clean ingredients

Soap is the result of a chemical reaction between oils (or vegetable butters) and a base, such as soda. The biggest enemy of clean soap? Palm oil, which can be found even in so-called traditional soaps, such as Aleppo or Marseille, because of unscrupulous manufacturers. Clean soap is therefore palm oil-free, vegan, preservative-free, paraben-free and 100% natural. Its manufacturing process, directly linked to the ingredients, requires butters such as shea, olive or coconut oil. To be completely "clean", vegetable butters must ideally be eco-sourced or from responsible production. Obviously, no sulfate in a clean soap, because this surfactant, used to make foam, strips the skin and dries it out.

A zero waste, local and short circuit soap

These artisanal soaps are rarely sold in supermarkets. They are found in " zero waste " distribution channels or in organic stores. They are easily spotted by their irregular and greasy appearance. They can sometimes be found in bulk and cut, sold directly from producers, or in organic stores where they are generally packaged in a minimalist cardboard box . Be careful with the cardboard packaging of organic soaps which can make you forget that there is palm oil in the composition.

Clean soap is therefore mainly produced by cold saponification – a process which guarantees 100% biodegradability – with non-polluting ingredients which respect the balance of the skin.